So I got a head unit, speakers and a underseat Jvc cs-bb2 self powered sub woofer.

Head unit - Alpine 9886
Speakers - Polk db6500
Subwoofer - Jvc cs-BB2


Now I am stuck on which gauge wiring should I get to run from my amp to my speakers, and what kind of amp would I need to power these speakers so they aren't running short of juice.


Speakers specs are as follows

Electrical
Overall Frequency Response 40Hz-23KHz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 100 w
Power Handling (peak) 300 w
Efficiency 92 dB

I assume I need a 2 channel amp at 4 ohms pushing at least 150w each channel? I really don't understand this 2 ohms and 4 ohms business. Someone hallp!

 

Most normal speakers run on 4ohm. I'd recommend the knuconceptz 4 gauge amp kit for your needs. You can go with an 8 gauge amp kit but if you want to upgrade equipment later then the 4 gauge kit is ideal. You can find the kits selling on ebay for roughly 25 bucks or so.

 

I'd also go 4 gauge on the amp wiring. from the amp to your speakers for the subs I would go at least 12 gauge. to the full range speakers 12 gauge is cool but overkill, 14 or 16 gauge will be fine.

I love my JL Audio amp, good power, great features, good price. I have a 450/4 amp it sends 75 watts to each of my front components and 300 watts to my 10W6V2. I'm using it for my crossover since it's got continuously variable sweep on the frequency.

150 watts for your midbass / highs is overkill, I get plenty of level out of my setup with 75watts. and the difference between 75 watts and 150 watts is only 3 more db anyway, not worth the extra cost of the amp to me.

 

I'd pick up a Sundown 100.2 for your components. $250-300. Better SQ than the JL amp, probably a bit less expensive as well. Or a Sundown 50.4, bridge the channels for approx 160W (turn the gain down), and later you can switch to an active x-over setup (far better SQ than the passive x-overs that come with your component set).

I know for a fact that Sundown properly rates their amps. Each and every amp is bench tested (not just birthed, but tested). Testing methodology is playing white noise for a 1hr minimum through the amp - if the amp at any time drops below the rated output (so on the 50.4, if the power on any channel drops below 50W), it's not shipped.

8ga should be plenty of power. I have a pair of Sundown 50.4's going into my truck - and they only take 8ga power/gnd.

 

I am so lost when you try to explain this to me lol. I would need a 4ohms amp pushing atleast 75 watts each channel right? My sub is already powered with a built in amp so I dont have to worry about powering the sub at all.

 

If your speakers are rated at 100 watts rms at 4 ohms. Find a 2 channel or 4 channel amp(find best price on one) that puts out 100watts rms at 4 ohms per channel. That'll be the best match up. You're mating the speakers with its recommended power.

 

I say 4 channel because you can sometimes find a cheaper 4 channel amp than a 2 channel. SQ starts at the HU and ends at the speaker. An amp will reproduce the sound starting at the headunit. Other better amps out there usually have processors that can help improve sound when needed. I personally have the 9886 and have a cheapo 4 channel running four channels at 80w rms. This setup is night and day better than before when I had an older Panasonice HU. The only thing replaced was the HU. Good amps don't usually break, that's why I'm opting for the 300/4 by JL next. Good luck to ya!

 

Electrical
Overall Frequency Response 40Hz-23KHz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Power Handling (continuous) 100 w
Power Handling (peak) 300 w
Efficiency 92 dB

Does this mean my speakers are rated to handle 100w or 300w?

 

I am thinking this amp

http://www.crutchfieldcanada.com/Alpine_MR.../500mrpf250.htm



Details:

 

RMS is measure of average power. I'd use this as the basis to match up an amp. The peak power is the instaneous peak power for at any frequency that can be produced. I'd stick to using the RMS ratings for any type of audio setup. The amp you're thinking about getting should do you right as well for your setup. When bridged you're getting 100w rms at 4 ohm, exactly what your speakers are recommended to use.