since you have an e8a, i'd defintely PM William... those take a little extra effort to get setup correctly due to their size, and he'll need to know in advance. you'll also be able to get the pricing and shipping info from him so that you know what to Paypal him...

i don't think 'Guests' get the discount though... i think you have to be a card carrying member of S2ki.com. and if i remember correctly i think his price used to be higher until S2ki.com stopped selling his subs using their store...

btw, here is his store... http://www.azcartoys.com/s2000.htm

 

Just purchased the box, he gave me the discount, awesome guy. I also when down and talked to the guys at Sound Advice, they say the amp is causing the clipping, and when I asked them what they would look at they pointed straight at the Kicker. But they wanted 450 for it and wouldnt price match it, so I guess Ill just buy it online and have them install. Thank you for all your help, I owe you aton.
gmoore

 

good deal... did they really point at the Kicker?? too funny...

 

Yup, they said that one right over there mounted to the podeum. And it was the one they were using to demo all of their subs. I sold my Visonik for 180, so, I took a hit, but atleast I dont have to worry about it. Thanks again.
gmoore

 

cool. lol -- them pointing to the Kicker is just ironic. still - they are good amps, which is why i don't hesitate to suggest them.

sorry you had to take a hit on the Visonik -- i hope it wasn't too bad.

let me know how the whole setup comes out...

Philip

 

Update, I went and talked to my shop that usually does my audio work (not Sound Advice) and they reccomended their Orion 800 watt 4 channel amp, this one, http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=13478 , were we would bridge two channels to run the sub. They also listened to my system, and thought my speakers were stock. I guess the plus is they thought we could get much, much better sound out of them with a new amp. The Orion amp is 376 as opposed to the 256 dollar Kicker one online. Which do you think is the better route to take?
gmoore

 

well... what are you powering your fronts with now? i'm shocked that they would think they were completely stock...

but then again, depending on how you have your settings (crossover, bass, treble, etc.) you might be shooting yourself in the foot...

regarding the Orion... they have had a good reputation in years past, but my current experience w/ them is limited. as i understand it, Orion gear (amps mainly) is still considered nice stuff, but their focus has always been on being loud and not always on sound quality... regardless, my main concern here is one thing...

the e8a.44 is a 4 ohm DVC sub -- so it almost has to be run as a 2 ohm sub.
is this Orion amp stable to 2 ohms when bridged?
the specs listed at online car stereo do not show that it is... and the Orion site doesn't have a recent manual posted for that amp, so i can't tell.... all my looking around the web doesn't show any 2 ohm bridged numbers, so i'm inclined to believe that it is NOT stable, and thus not one you can use...

also, even if it was 2 ohm stable -- at those power ratings, you'll be putting close to 800 watts rms into the e8a... and that's just too much...

 

The sad part is if he would have listened to the speakers before I fiddled with all the amp settings and HU settings he would have cried. It sound 100% better than when I got it, but apparently, still very poor. I told him it was a 2 OHM dual voice coil before he recomended the amp, so I guess he knows its stable, but I will double check.

We will be using 2 channels to run the fronts, and the other two for the sub, so are you sure we will be pushing 800 watts to the sub? That just doesnt seem possible considering its a 800 watt max amp.

As of now, the Kicker sounds like the better amp, for the better price. But I will go back and talk to them, he just seemed very knowledgable about all this and I would be surprised if he didnt know whether the Orion was 2 ohm stable or not.

And also, we can run the RCA's out of the sub output on the back of the HU and into the other input on the back of the amp, so that I have the sub control correct? I dunno if it makes any difference, but when I decided to try tri-mode I ordered a subcrossover, should we use that in the new install?
gmoore

 

4 x 200 watts @ 2 Ohm

I just found that on the site I linked above for the Orion. Granted I dont know what Im talking about but doesnt that mean its 2 Ohm stable?
gmoore

 

i figured you'd be wiring stereo to the fronts and bridging it mono for the sub... but you might have made a minor mistake when explaining the e8a... it's a touchy (and confusing) nomenclature -- but the e8a sub is actually a 4 ohm DVC sub, which means it will have a 2 ohm total load when wired parallel.
so, if you told him it was a 2 ohm DVC sub, his recommendation is right, as you could wire a 2 ohm DVC sub for a 4 ohm total load when wired in series.
(DVC = dual voice coil)

alright -- now to explain a little bit...
these are the stats for the Orion:
4 x 100 watts @ 4 Ohm
4 x 200 watts @ 2 Ohm
2 x 400 watts @ 4 Ohm

and yes, it does show that the Orion would be 2 ohm STEREO stable, but note that the 2 x 400 watts is @ 4 ohms. they did not list a 2 x ZZZ watts @ 2 ohms... that implies that the amp is not 2 ohm bridged (mono) stable... that is why i'm thinking the amp wouldn't be stable running the e8a sub in bridged mode.

and if you look - when the 4 x 100 @ 4 ohms is changed to 4 x 200 @ 2 ohms, you'll notice that when the 'ohms' (speaker resistance) was cut in half, that the power doubled.... so if the Orion was stable at 2 ohms when bridged, the 2 x 400 @ 4 ohms would double at 2 ohms and give you 2 x 800 @ 2 ohms...
the fact that they did name the amp the 8004 also implies that the max power is 800 watts, which is achieved at 2 x 400 @ 4 ohms or 4 x 200 @ 2 ohms... this also confirms (suggests) that the amp is not stable when bridged to 2 ohms...

i hope all of this makes sense...