When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
JL Audio 500/1 Sensitivity: 3/4 Input Voltage: Low Signal Sensing: Off Filter Frequency: 65 Boost: 0 Center Frequency: 60 Q: 1.6 Infrasonic Filter: Off Infrasonic Freq: 55 Filter Mode: LP
JL Audio e2150 Sensitivity: 3/4 Filter Frequency: 200 Bass Boost: Off Filter Mode: HP
I have no idea what any of these things do, but this is how the installer had them set. He seemed like he was rushing though. He didn't even listen to it when he was tuning. He just set them to however he thought they would sound best.
Looks to me that you have a BIG crossover gap between your two amps. The sub is set at 65 and the mid/highs are at 200. No wonder your sub seems over powered.
It also looks like the Head Unit has some nice crossover settings, however the slope is set to pass....I'm guessing that this means they are bypassed and the amps are doing the crossover work. That is fine.
I would start by verifying the crossovers in the Head Unit are bypassed (I think they already are) and lower the crossover on the Mid/Highs to 100hz and see how that works out.
I guess the is no right way to set them if you are happy with the sound, but there are certainly wrong ways.....and that gap is part of your problem.
I would make sure that there is actually a bit of overlap between the cabin speakers and the sub, instead of a gap. This will blend the sub in better. I would recommend crossing the components at 60htz (or whatever their lower operating frequenct is, if its higher than 60), and the sub at 80. When you cross a sub down at 60htz, that is the point at which the bass frequency is omni-directions (your ears cannot tell is the signal is behind, in front, or right next to you).
Read the FAQ on how to tune your amp..... People are just going to tell you the same thing, and PJK3 explains everything VERY well in that thread about what each setting does on the amp.
Looks to me that you have a BIG crossover gap between your two amps. The sub is set at 65 and the mid/highs are at 200. No wonder your sub seems over powered.
It also looks like the Head Unit has some nice crossover settings, however the slope is set to pass....I'm guessing that this means they are bypassed and the amps are doing the crossover work. That is fine.
I would start by verifying the crossovers in the Head Unit are bypassed (I think they already are) and lower the crossover on the Mid/Highs to 100hz and see how that works out.
I guess the is no right way to set them if you are happy with the sound, but there are certainly wrong ways.....and that gap is part of your problem.
Yea, I knew there was something wrong. I adjusted the small amp down to 80hz.
The guy at the car audio shop set it to 200hz because he said it wouldn't overload the crossover that way. My speakers started shutting off when I cranked it up. He said, its the crossovers getting too hot.
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jul 21 2007, 06:27 AM
I would make sure that there is actually a bit of overlap between the cabin speakers and the sub, instead of a gap. This will blend the sub in better. I would recommend crossing the components at 60htz (or whatever their lower operating frequenct is, if its higher than 60), and the sub at 80. When you cross a sub down at 60htz, that is the point at which the bass frequency is omni-directions (your ears cannot tell is the signal is behind, in front, or right next to you).
Read the FAQ on how to tune your amp..... People are just going to tell you the same thing, and PJK3 explains everything VERY well in that thread about what each setting does on the amp.
John
I checked it out and it was pretty helpful on how to adjust my gains accordingly.
I'm just trying to figure out the frequencies.
exp:
Center Frequency: the lower the number = low/tight bass?? and higher = more boomy bass?
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Jul 21 2007, 06:27 AM
I would make sure that there is actually a bit of overlap between the cabin speakers and the sub, instead of a gap. This will blend the sub in better. I would recommend crossing the components at 60htz, and the sub at 80.
When you cross a sub down at 60htz, that is the point at which the bass frequency is omni-directions (your ears cannot tell is the signal is behind, in front, or right next to you).
John
John,
Thanks for posting this. I just had my system installed, and have been tinkering with the amp settings. I started with both HP/LP at 80Hz. Then brought the sub up to 100Hz to get a little more blend, but didn't really like "hearing the trunk."
The a/d/s (new old stock) components say frequency response down to 40Hz, so moving their HP crossover point down to 60Hz, and moving the sub back to 80Hz might work great.
Moving to 40Hz HP and 60Hz LP might be too much??
A question about phase... the sub and box were purchased from a forum member (the seas lotus... I think you may have his Alpine amp ) and the sub is hardwired, so I don't know for sure which color is positive/negative (I assumed Blue->Positive, Silver->Negative). As the sub is in the trunk with my amp, does it really matter if the wires are reversed (or does phase even matter with trunk subs)?
Check out this link for frequencies in tuning its from the FAQ. Set your LPF to whatever frequency you want the sub to hit. I have mine at 80htz. I have my cross overs set at 60htz, even though the manufacturer claims 45 htz frequency response, there is not much to the sound below 60 (can barely hear hit, but you more feel it.... and that is what the sub is for).
I had sent him a PM about another issue, before I thought about the phase issue, but hadn't heard back yet. Since he sold the S2K, I imagine he's spending far less time here.
For the sub, there is no terminal, just a wire protruding out (siliconed on both sides to seal I was told). So you have an uninterrupted wire straight from the speaker to the amp. Here's a picture:
Is my system tuned correctly? Specs inside
I would make sure that there is actually a bit of overlap between the cabin speakers and the sub, instead of a gap. This will blend the sub in better. I would recommend crossing the components at 60htz (or whatever their lower operating frequenct is, if its higher than 60), and the sub at 80. When you cross a sub down at 60htz, that is the point at which the bass frequency is omni-directions (your ears cannot tell is the signal is behind, in front, or right next to you).
) and the sub is hardwired, so I don't know for sure which color is positive/negative (I assumed Blue->Positive, Silver->Negative). As the sub is in the trunk with my amp, does it really matter if the wires are reversed (or does phase even matter with trunk subs)? 
