When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well... I'm NO expert on this, but I have an 800watt RMS 4 channel amp in my S2K + 100watt RMS amp to the sub, and when I'm pushing it hard, the lights on the amp (its got lighted meters, etc...) WILL/DO dim. This (to me) suggests its power-robbed. I had bought off UBID.COM a 1 farad cap for $19 bucks (normally like $149 from circuit-city/best-buy)... installed it and the amp nolonger dims when under a big load. My lights never dimmed (but as said, HIDs shouldn't anyway)...
I have no idea if this is really doing anything extra-special, but for $19 bucks, I figured that the hell.
The cap is about the size of a TALL Fosters beer... (Same width or so, and about 50% longer)-- its BIG.
How big is your power cable? The meters probably dimmed at idle, try revving up the engine and see if they dim without the cap. With the cap, the cap will store energy and help at low rpm, it's like having a second battery in the car.
Thickest I could 'easily' run was 8 gauge power/ground. I know 4 gauge would have been better, but getting it through the gromet in the firewall would have been a serious pain. I dunno if it dimmed with the car running...but it doesn't dim anymore now... go figure. I have no idea if its really making a difference, but what the hell for $19 bucks.-- Seriously I have a BIG-ASS cap on this thing. :-)
-- Aaron
[QUOTE]Originally posted by matrix
[B]How big is your power cable?
well, im 2 cents help at all. i have had a system in every car i have owned, and that makes 4. power wires are the heart of the system. as mentioned above, these are what keep things flowing.
as for needing a cap, well, in your application, no, not really, if you have a loss of power its because of our motorcycle batteries, not lack of a capacitor. but your system is small enough to run off what you have.
i was running a 2 amps in my 300 z pushing close to 400 watts rms. before i added a 1 farad cap it sounded great, but when i did, everything clearer, tighter, and hit a hell of a lot harder. but again, i dont think you need it in this application.
I'm running 500W RMS power with a 15" Blaupunkt overdrive dual voice coil woofer at 2 Ohms off a Kenwood mono sub amp. I never trust a stock electrical system with anything over 300 W, especially with the S2000's small battery. I put in .5 Farad capacitor by strike, and it sounds great even when hitting hard at high levels....when the amp has plenty of juice the Sub won't sound muddy. I am very pleased with my system....
Kenwood Z919 MP3 Head unit
Sony 6 1/2 component speakers...with tweeters installed in A-Pillars
Custom Fiberglass enclosure I built for the tool bay...that is removable if I need it
Amp and Capacitor installed in Spare tire area(Removed)
Going to add the Rear panel speakers by Lucid when Bonus check comes.
Originally posted by amartin What was involved to install the 15" sub? ..materials, etc... Looks good.
-- Aaron
Being an audio enthusiast...I knew from day one that the stock system had to go...quick
I like clean music...but still get the itch for some big deep bass. The Honda sub or the Bass Shakers were not going to work for me. After measuring and playing around with ideas, I knew that the only way I was going to get a decent size sub and still maintain some trunk space was to build a custom enclosure from fiberglass that molds to the tool area. I had never worked with fiberglass before but I did it pretty easily after some trial and error and a big mess.
Buy some thick fiberglass sheets and lots of resin with a couple of disposable brushes. I chose to leave the carpet in the well in case I need to bring it back to stock. Completely cover the area with aluminum foil so the fiberglass won't stick. Mix resin and completely soak both sides of fiberglass sheet with resin. Lay a complete layer...wait 30 min.. and repeat...about 3 more times. 4 sheets thick is pretty strong when dry. Only mix enough resin to do one layer at a time because it drys fast. I used a wooden frame on top for more airspace and to connect the fiberglass to the box top below. Lay it down before you begin and lay fiberglass over it. Make sure you wear gloves and a mask. Here is a link to a guy who has pics of the box he made for his stang.
Next, I cut the top of the future box out of 3/4 in birch HD fiberboard. The top and frame have lip around the sides, and sit flush on the trunk. I Then used the speaker template to cut the hole for the woofer and the speaker contacts. I layed this piece on top of the frame after sanding the fiberglass on the frame to make it as flush as possible. Then connect both with some screws and nails. I used minimally expanding Great Stuff from the hardware store to seal the top and make it airtight. Cut some charcoal gray carpet and staple it underneath the lip, and cut out your holes with a razor blade or scissors. Fill the box with sound damping filler( This slows down the sound waves and theoretically adds up to to 20% more airspace) Connnect your terminals and sub. Screw it down and your set. You can order some carpet, filler, and terminals from http://www.crutchfield.com
Total cost about $50 - $80 plus labor. Took me several hours to complete. Make sure you don't make your frame too tall or you won't be able to get the box out of the trunk. Check your sub for its recommended box size first. My box is about 1 - 1.2 Cu. ft., that's why I went with the Blaupunkt because it doesn't need a lot of airspace.
