Passenger window does not work from driver or passenger door
08-26-2018, 05:19 PM
#21
I have only modest electrical knowledge, but I do have the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual which is very useful.
In the context of this manual, "C" just means connector. On the wiring diagram they list the
connector number, and then two further references - a photo of its location, and the map of
the connector cavities ("terminal view") showing which wire is in which location and its purpose.
If you separate the male & female side of the connector you should be able to easily test with
a multimeter. When you described the passenger window rolling up without any switches pressed,
it seems likely there is +12v on the "window up" wire, so I'd try to figure out if it is powered
when it came from the drivers's door (with no switches pressed it shouldn't be). If the blue/red (cavity 15
on an AP1) has power, then you need to figure out where it's getting it - remove the key or disconnect
the battery so nothing is powered, and use the multimeter in ohms mode to check continuity between the
blue/red and red/white - reading should be near infinity - there should be no connection between these
wires without the switch being pressed. But ultimately any wire that carries +12v could be shorted to
it, doesn't have to be a power window wire.
If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, the female side of the of the connector leads to the door,
and the male side leads to the convertible top module.
In the context of this manual, "C" just means connector. On the wiring diagram they list the
connector number, and then two further references - a photo of its location, and the map of
the connector cavities ("terminal view") showing which wire is in which location and its purpose.
If you separate the male & female side of the connector you should be able to easily test with
a multimeter. When you described the passenger window rolling up without any switches pressed,
it seems likely there is +12v on the "window up" wire, so I'd try to figure out if it is powered
when it came from the drivers's door (with no switches pressed it shouldn't be). If the blue/red (cavity 15
on an AP1) has power, then you need to figure out where it's getting it - remove the key or disconnect
the battery so nothing is powered, and use the multimeter in ohms mode to check continuity between the
blue/red and red/white - reading should be near infinity - there should be no connection between these
wires without the switch being pressed. But ultimately any wire that carries +12v could be shorted to
it, doesn't have to be a power window wire.
If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly, the female side of the of the connector leads to the door,
and the male side leads to the convertible top module.
08-28-2018, 06:09 AM
#28
Passenger Window regulator click noise every 5 secs
hello guys, im running the same issue, but mine is stuck down. I already tried the basics and even the hold bottom to reset the module and make it work,
i noticed that every 5 secs, a click noise comes from the panel(possible regulator). I also noticed that the regulator is really warm, like if its overheated from being used(possible fault signal coming from the driver side). Im still doing testing
i will be ordering a new window regulator but first I'm experimenting possibilities
i noticed that every 5 secs, a click noise comes from the panel(possible regulator). I also noticed that the regulator is really warm, like if its overheated from being used(possible fault signal coming from the driver side). Im still doing testing
i will be ordering a new window regulator but first I'm experimenting possibilities
08-28-2018, 10:08 PM
#30
**Update**
my passanger side switch is responding to "up and down" commands and the car does act like the switch is absorbing power whenever is pressed but unfortunately the window regulator is not reaponding. Time for a new one i guess
