Don't forget that the output side of the amplifier will be at a higher voltage rating, therefore, needing less current to produce the same amount of power.

 

Thanks for all the input and info. I am planning on a speaker wire replacement in the near future.

 

Damn you, modifry, stop checking my numbers...that's at least TWICE now you've busted me Excellent analogy, BTW...

But I still stand by my statement about running the system at full power versus low power. At low power (your 50% value), he'll be fine, but would you really want to run any wire at the "smoking barrier" when cranking the volume? Not me!

 

Sorry to keep resurrecting old threads but...
If I give up on running new wire into the door (I'm running 12 ga. throughout) should I use as short a length as possible of the existing wire? Or doesn't it really matter?

Thanks,
jd

 

For these purposes, distance won't matter. You could chop off a foot or two in the distance, and you'll only be making a 0.5%-1% change in resistance, if that. 12 Guage should be adequate for most systems, but don't think that 12 Guage hooked up to 2' of 24 Guage is going to be anywhere near the power-handling capability of pure 12 Guage...it'll be the same power-handling capability as 2' of 24 Guage, and that's that.

 

12 gauge is kinda overkill for the doors, ideal for subs. Should be fine with 16 gauge. I like the Tsunami twisted double insulated easy to work with and durable

 

ahhh... here's where this thread has been hiding.


personal keyword: evenflo

 

I have a question...
Can I attach new wire to the old wire and pull it through the grommet, or do I need to just remove and reinstall separately?

 

From what I remember, the existing speaker wire is bundled in with other wires going to the door so forget about it. Run the new wire seperately and let the old wire be.

 

^ you need to pull it in seperately. But its easy.