S2K Fiberglass Box Install Instructions
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 469
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From: Florida
Let me start off by saying I was unhappy with my current setup of just having a box sit in the middle of my trunk. It looked out of place, took up too much room, and the sound quality was a bit lacking. I could have easily paid someone a nice chunk of money to create a custom box or bought some of those flush side boxes that people are always selling, but I decided to venture into the unknown and create my own box out of fiberglass.
Doing some discussions with my friend, he pointed me to a great DIY thread on the rsxclub website. It pinpointed the materials and method to create a box for the RSX. Therefore, using this information we both adapted it to the s2k. Read below for instructions.
Disclaimer: Below is the method I used and the amount of materials I needed. You may possible use less or more to create the box. Err on the side of caution when creating the box, and don't forget, mask tape everything to protect it!
MATERIALS -- from Home Depot and crafts store
============
-fiberglass resin w/ hardener [You'll need at least 1 gallon depending on how many layers you want to do]
-fiberglass matting/woven cloth [I used cloth - home depot had two kinds, either is sufficient. Buy at least 2 packs if not 3, just in case.]
-blue painter's tape [Get at least 2 big rolls of it, you can't go wrong here with more]
-disposable paint brushes [get at least 4, maybe 5 of these, because after they are used once in the resin w/ hardener they are no longer good the next day]
-aluminum foil [used by the guy on the rsxclub site - I used it also but saw no benefits to it. It just made the effort of taking it off the fiberglass even harder after it sealed. Use at your descretion]
-[B]MDF
Doing some discussions with my friend, he pointed me to a great DIY thread on the rsxclub website. It pinpointed the materials and method to create a box for the RSX. Therefore, using this information we both adapted it to the s2k. Read below for instructions.
Disclaimer: Below is the method I used and the amount of materials I needed. You may possible use less or more to create the box. Err on the side of caution when creating the box, and don't forget, mask tape everything to protect it!
MATERIALS -- from Home Depot and crafts store
============
-fiberglass resin w/ hardener [You'll need at least 1 gallon depending on how many layers you want to do]
-fiberglass matting/woven cloth [I used cloth - home depot had two kinds, either is sufficient. Buy at least 2 packs if not 3, just in case.]
-blue painter's tape [Get at least 2 big rolls of it, you can't go wrong here with more]
-disposable paint brushes [get at least 4, maybe 5 of these, because after they are used once in the resin w/ hardener they are no longer good the next day]
-aluminum foil [used by the guy on the rsxclub site - I used it also but saw no benefits to it. It just made the effort of taking it off the fiberglass even harder after it sealed. Use at your descretion]
-[B]MDF
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 48,203
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From: Lewisville, TX
Thanks for taking the time on a detailed write-up! 
A respirator is a MUST!!!
I didn't get one while laying my fiberglass and was really sick for like a day and a half! If I make it down to Tampa this year, I'll have to meet up with you and show you mine! (that didn't sound so good!
)
A respirator is a MUST!!!
I didn't get one while laying my fiberglass and was really sick for like a day and a half! If I make it down to Tampa this year, I'll have to meet up with you and show you mine! (that didn't sound so good! )
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Hopedale, MA
Nice write up!
On another note though make sure you use a polyester(sp?) based risen. Also if you use an airhose you can blow the foil right off the mold.
The best thing to use is a mold release wax. Just line the well with a small piece of plastic then the tape then just rub the mold release wax on it and your done. The mold will be perfect. My brother is working with me to setup the system and my new box looks killer. We used the tool well box/holder thing as a mold. He flipped it over taped it off and just poured/brushed the risen onto the box and layed the fiberglass weave on it and it was done in about 2 hours, completely dry.
After he's done with it I'll post the pictures. It's almost ready for paint.
On another note though make sure you use a polyester(sp?) based risen. Also if you use an airhose you can blow the foil right off the mold.
The best thing to use is a mold release wax. Just line the well with a small piece of plastic then the tape then just rub the mold release wax on it and your done. The mold will be perfect. My brother is working with me to setup the system and my new box looks killer. We used the tool well box/holder thing as a mold. He flipped it over taped it off and just poured/brushed the risen onto the box and layed the fiberglass weave on it and it was done in about 2 hours, completely dry.
After he's done with it I'll post the pictures. It's almost ready for paint.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
just as an FYI for others who follow -- generally speaking, if you plan to mount an amp on a sub enclosure, it's a good idea to take precautions and 'stiffen' or dampen the mounting area. heavy bass vibrations over time can cause damage to the circuit boards in amplifiers by loosening the solder joints.
a technique for stiffening, would be to place cross members across the mounting zone and then screw into those. that type of stiffening will reduce the vibration of the box in that area and thus provide some protection to the amp.
a technique for damping would be to place rubber 'bumpers'/isolator between the amp mounts and the box, once again with the intention to reduce the transfer of vibration from the enclosure to the amp.
John, don't get me wrong, i'm not saying that your amp is in immediate danger or anything... but if in 3-4 years you start to have amp problems... at least you'll know why. in your case, you used 3/4" MDF for your top, and there is a very good chance that it will be stiff enough on it's own to substantially reduce your chances of an amp failure. not to mention, it doesn't look like you're pouring oodles of power into that sub, so that should help keep vibrations down as well...
amp reference
[QUOTE]Amplifier mounting:
DO NOT mount an amplifier on your subwoofer box. I know that there has been a great deal of discussion over mounting an amplifier to an enclosure and many people do it all of the time with no problems but those people probably build good enclosures from 3/4" (or thicker) MDF with extensive bracing. Most people (especially young impatient people) are too lazy to do that and build unbraced enclosures from 5/8 MDF. These enclosures will flex considerably more than a proper enclosure and will likely cause amplifier failure if the amp is mounted to the enclosure.
a technique for stiffening, would be to place cross members across the mounting zone and then screw into those. that type of stiffening will reduce the vibration of the box in that area and thus provide some protection to the amp.
a technique for damping would be to place rubber 'bumpers'/isolator between the amp mounts and the box, once again with the intention to reduce the transfer of vibration from the enclosure to the amp.
John, don't get me wrong, i'm not saying that your amp is in immediate danger or anything... but if in 3-4 years you start to have amp problems... at least you'll know why. in your case, you used 3/4" MDF for your top, and there is a very good chance that it will be stiff enough on it's own to substantially reduce your chances of an amp failure. not to mention, it doesn't look like you're pouring oodles of power into that sub, so that should help keep vibrations down as well...
amp reference
[QUOTE]Amplifier mounting:
DO NOT mount an amplifier on your subwoofer box. I know that there has been a great deal of discussion over mounting an amplifier to an enclosure and many people do it all of the time with no problems but those people probably build good enclosures from 3/4" (or thicker) MDF with extensive bracing. Most people (especially young impatient people) are too lazy to do that and build unbraced enclosures from 5/8 MDF. These enclosures will flex considerably more than a proper enclosure and will likely cause amplifier failure if the amp is mounted to the enclosure.