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I'm going to contact Boston Acoustics and ask them if sealing my woofers would really be worth the trouble. If I get a good answer (my experience with their tech support has not been positive), I'll post what they say.
i look forward to hearing what they have to say... do you have any parameters for the speakers listed in the manuals/documentation? (iirc, i have these same speakers in the Ody... i can pull the manual when i get home. SL60's right?)
Looks like the Z6 can work in a small sealed enclosure but likes IB (goes a little lower) and the roll off is not as sharp. Of course you could probably drive them a little harder if they were sealed.
Boston does have a 6.5 inch mid-bass that is designed for optimal use in a 7L / .25ft^3 sealed enclosure.
Looks like the Z6 can work in a small sealed enclosure but likes IB (goes a little lower) and the roll off is not as sharp. Of course you could probably drive them a little harder if they were sealed.
Boston does have a 6.5 inch mid-bass that is designed for optimal use in a 7L / .25ft^3 sealed enclosure.
Thanks, wlaurent.
Too bad about the kick panels. That would be an interesting option.
Seems that, to go sealed, you would need a sub with real impact extending all the way up to where the sealed box rolls off. Whether that total package would be better than letting your door speakers play lower is hard to know without trying it.
But creating a sealed box in the door = major headache.
Thanks, MR_ASDF. I appreciate the advice. The phone number is great too, in case I get to a point where I'm not sure what to do.
I'm going to start a new thread about deadening/sealing the doors. Please have a look. That's where I'll ask any specific questions that come up as I go along.
Originally Posted by MR_ASDF,Jul 26 2005, 09:21 PM
MDF is a much better dampening material than a thin sheet of metal. thin metal although dampened well, can still resonate a bit more than MDF and deadener. by combining MDF and metal, you are reinforcing that area and with the use of deadener on top of this, you create the least amount of resonance.
i treated my entire door, it is a lot of weight. for some of you who want the most gain just seal up the door with deadener and seal any leaks between the baffle and door.
you complain about a lot of work with deadening, honestly, kick panels or sealed box in your door will take a loooooot longer.
stop going by parameters and sealed boxes. if it was such a great idea how come i dont know any competitors that use sealed boxes for car drivers.
sealing the door is probably the best thing to do IMO. if you do a sealed box or kick panel that plays midbass and midrange, you will get a muffled midrange.
i have given you steps on how to do it, soo... go do it. if you dont like it, then change it. trial and error is a good way to learn.
EDIT: if you need help, call me 626-975-4525
I sprayed the inside of my door cavity (window up) with 3M spray undercoat. That helped alot!
I glanced through some of the posts and saw someone mentioned theres not enough room in the kick panels for drivers. I might have missed part of the conversation, but here are some pics that it is possible.
Do you have more info on this install? I'm wondering where and how they moved the wiring out of the way and where they moved it to, to fit that speaker on the drivers side?
