well I am gonna try some of these things..

I hope that I dont fall in the audio gods don't like me category.

 

malf amp... maybe.

malf subs... 2 brand new from tweeter at the same time.. doubtful

sub setting... no

poly fill... no it sucks with or without it

bad wires.. same wires i was using just changed amps and outputs.

leak... no

that leaves.. uhh. WHY GOD!

 

I have the same amp with two channels bridged driving a JL 8" dual 4 ohm sub wired in series and a set of 4 ohm components. I also had a lack of 'hit' problem until I finally moved the input mode switch from 2 channel to 4. You might play with this switch. I would use one non-fading pre-amp input to the amp via y-adapters allowing all four inputs to be connected on the amp. Then put the input selector switch to 4 channel mode.

JeffA

 

ah...

my bad, for whatever reason, i was thinking 300/2, bridged to 1 channel, even though i obviously read 300/4.

checking phase can be done by following wires and verifying + to + and - to -. it can also be done using a D-cell battery. connect the speaker wires to the + and - on the battery. the sub should move the same direction for both subs. (either in or out), and it should make a pop like noise. this won't harm anything... just touch them, look for direction of movement, disconnect. and it will be a 1 way move, not back and forth.


and all the stuff William said...


i'd disagree w/ this... it can be done this way... but i would agree with William that a 2 channel bridged or a mono amp would better serve you here.

well, i'm not going to really argue all the points on this, but for sure i do not think this will work w/ the JL amps. they use the RIPS system, which is NOT a typical power supply. i don't think this will work, especially in this case.

also, while Dave disagrees -- i'm generally against running voice coils in stereo. i'd much rather see them in mono. it just eliminates a lot of different possible issues before they even start.


now -- Av8ing1 brings up a good point... JL amps have some odd settings sometimes. let me read the manual quicklike.

here are some things to check --
make sure the input voltage is set to LOW. then reset your gains!
not sure the 2 channel or 4 channel switch will matter. just make sure you've got 2 inputs into the front if you are using the 2 channel switch.

 

Well I spoke with William on the phone and we decided that I am probably best to run get some JL 8w6v2 while you can still find them and try those on the same setup to eliminate the speaker side of the equation albeit I will be very dissapointed in the quarts if that turns out to work well and I'll just make Hifi buys take the stuff back. If the JLs turn out shitty I have a nice silver and black coffee table ornament and will go get a new amp. I'll know something soon.

Thanks for all the help guys.

alex

 

Have you tried swapping you amps?

The 8w6 (I don't think there's a 8w6v2?) will need a bigger amp than what you've got now. If you've given up on yor current setup, you might want to go with someone's tried and tested setup. I personally don't have a WLaurant box but many here have and can recommend a sub/amp combo that will work for that box.

I know there was a test done with different 8 inch subs in the WLaurant box but I can't find that post now, maybe someone else can point you to it?

Good luck!

 

[QUOTE](I don't think there's a 8w6v2?)




The V2 stands for version 2. They have been out for a few years and have inverted dust caps.

Take it from someone who used to sell and install car audio (including JL), don't try to run W6's with a 300/4. You will be much better off buying W3's. I run a single 10W3v2-D6 with the rear output of a 300/4 in my tire well in a custom built box much like the JL and it sounds great. If you want muuucho bass do a W7 10 and a 500/1.

 

I know, but I don't think they make a 8w6v2, only 10 inch and above? If they make an 8 I'd love to buy one for the fiberglass enclosure in my spare tire (if it fits).

Could you please tell me where I can buy one?

Thanks!

 

I believe what he wanted to say was 8w3v2 D6 (6 ohm DVC)

 

ahh... now that makes sense.


there was an 8W6, but never a v2. i know, i looked.


btw -- have you checked that the voltage input on the amp is set to LOW?