I am installing a new HU,Amps and speakers this week end. I was wondering if my plan is correct.

New Pioneer HU wired using aftermarket harness.

1. HU constant Power, switched power,ground, remote turn on and Illum. are connected from Pioneer harness to directly to aftermarket Harness
2. Spliced in single remote turn line (#18) to go to the amps after HU fuse before connection to aftermarket harness.
3. Spliced in DCI power to switched 12V line between pioneer resistor and aftermarket Harness.
4. Spliced in DCI ground to pioneer ground between pioneer resistor and aftermarket harness
5. Splice in DCI signal (green wire) into stock wiring before stock plug. Unfortunity there was no pin in slot 3 of aftermarket harness. Later, I will try to figure out Mute function wiring.

Question:I did not use any speaker connection between Pioneer harness and after maket harness. Is this needed??

Connection of power/signal to amp

1. RCA (Twisted Pair) from Front Pre-Amp out (L/R) to 1st Pioneer GM-X722 Amp in trunk
2. RCA (twisted Pair) from Sub Pre-Amp out (L/R) to 2nd Pioneer GM-X722 amp in trunk
3. Single #18 turn on wire from splice in harness to 1st Amp with jumper wire to 2nd Amp
4. Single #4 wire with inline fuse from aftermarket battery terminal block to terminal block in trunk. Then 2 #8 wires to amp power
5. 2 #8 ground wires (one from each amp) to separate grounding bolts in trunk area.

Connection of Speaker wire. (Here's where I get lost)

1. New wire from front speakers to 1st Amp

Question:How do the remote tweeters get signal now? Built in cross over??

2. New wire from Rear speakers to 1st Amp

Question: The 1st Amp is a 2 channel running 4 speakers. How should these speakers be connected to the amp.

3. New wire from Sub to 2nd Amp. I plan on connected this up as a single channel.

Sorry for the length I just wanted to be as clear as possible. Is this plan correct with exception of questions or am I missing something?

Erich

 

Here's my take on what you have laid out here (I've worked as a car stereo salesman/installer for 15 years now so don't panic ) :

-You're correct that no connections should be made between the Pioneer harness speaker wires and the aftermarket harness speaker wires. To answer a later question, run the wires for the front speakers from your amp up to the aftermarket harness and connect them to the front speaker wires in that harness. This saves you from having to get in the doors (major pain), and runs the tweeters just like the factory deck was still hooked to them. They have capacitors on them for frequency crossovers, so nothing else is needed. Still don't hook the Pioneer harness speaker wires to anything. Terminate them and let 'em go.

-Your distribution block should be fused as well. The fuse by the battery (no more than 18 inches away) should be big enough for both amps and each fuse in the block should be big enough for each amp. It's just better protection for the amps. With just the inline fuse at the battery, you're only protecting the car.

-When hooking up the interior speakers to the 2 channel amp just parallel the lefts and rights. This is assuming that the amp you're using is 2 ohm stable in stereo (which most amps are). Take the left front and left rear positive and connect them to the left positive output on the amp. So on down the line until you have 4 points with 2 wires at each.

-Your ground points may be better off going to the same place to reduce the chance of ground loops and subsequent engine noise. Scrape away any paint, etc. before mounting any ground.


Other than that, it sounds like you've got a handle on it. Any other questions, feel free to ask.

Phil.

 

Thanks for the Info!!

I have a couple of other questions.

1. Will this set up give me use of the fader? I am assuming that the balance function won't work?

2. I have Kenwood speakers installed up front and They used the stock wiring to connect new speakers. Does that mean the tweeters are still connected?? I have not tested them to be sure

3. Each amp has 2-20 amp fuses built in. Is a fused distribution block still needed?

 

-Your balance WILL work, your fader will NOT. Left front and rear pairs go together and Right front and rear pairs go together. If you get a four channel amp for your interiors, you can regain your fader.

-The tweeters should still work after replacing the OEM's with Kenwoods if you just used the wiring that was in the bucket in the door.

-I would still use a fused distribution block. I've seen amps melt the plastic blade fuses in their cases and still eat themselves. Think about it. If your sub amp develops a problem and the chassis fuses don't do the trick, it has to blow an 80 amp fuse to stop getting juice. Not that the fused block will prevent every problem, but it's better protection. So (2) 40 amp fuses in the block and (1) 80 amp fuse in the fuseholder.

 

Phil,
Here are the Amp Specs. If I am reading this correctly, It is 1 Ohm stable.

Any recommendations on procedure for setting the "Top mount controls" listed below?

Specifications
Continuous Power (20Hz-20kHz, 0.04% THD)
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 80Wx2
2 ch: (2 Ohm) 120Wx2
1 ch: (4 Ohm) 240Wx1
Maximum Power (EIAJ)
2 ch: (4 Ohm) 160Wx2
1 ch: (4 Ohm) 480Wx1
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB)
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.004% (1kHz, 4 Ohm)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 102dB (IHF-A Weighted, at 1kHz)
Dimensions: 10" x 2-3/8" x 10-3/8"
Features

Bridgeable 1/2/3 Channel Capability
1-Ohm Stable Operation
PWM Regulated MOSFET Power Supply
Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
Gold-Plated RCA Inputs
Gold-Plated RCA Outputs (Pass-Thru)
Top-Mount Controls
Variable Crossover: 50-120Hz, -12dB/oct. (LPF/HPF)
Bass Boost (60Hz, 0 to +12dB)
Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-6.5V)
Single Fan Cool
Illuminated Logo

 

The interior amp is this rating:

2 ch: (2 Ohm) 120Wx2

The sub rating is:

1 ch: (4 Ohm) 240Wx1

So you're ok on the interior amp. I'm not sure on the sub amp, you never said what kind and what impedence sub you're using.

The top mount controls will work differently for each amp. You will only need to mess with the Hi-volt control on the interior amp. The sub amp will require adjustment of all of them. Usually, you adjust them to personal preference, or to the pre-out specs of the head unit, so you may have to play around with them yourself. 80Hz is a nice crossover point for the sub, once again depending on which one and what you listen to.

 

Thanks again.

I will check on the Sub resistance and get back to you.

I was just sketching out a possiblity of how to keep the fader function.

Let me know what you think.

1. LF HU RCA to L amp in
2. LR HU RCA to R amp in
3. LF + and RF + to L amp+
4. LF - and RF- to L amp -
5. LR+ and RR+ to R amp +
6. LR- and RR- to R amp -

I believe the kenwoods (6.5" and 4.25") are both the same resistance, but i will have to check.

 

Sorry for being such a pain. I should have bought a 4 channel for the interior, but I got the system used as a entire package.

I REALLY appreciate your help!

 

Don't do it. You'll lose your stereo imaging and it'll sound like death, especially if you like any older rock music (Led Zeppelin without guitars or vocals, etc.). You would only be reproducing the left channel. Yuck.

The fader is minor, it's a small car inside. You'll probably just find that the fronts will overpower the rears a bit. Get a four channel later if it drives you nuts. It'll still rock.

And you're not a pain at all. You're very welcome. Anytime.

Phil.

 

I got the fuse/fuse holders for the amps. I will give the install a shot this weekend. I will let you know how it goes.