I mentioned in another thread that I was doing an install using the stock HU a week or so ago and a couple people asked me to give an update when it was done. I still have no sub as it's on B/O so the wlaurent enclosure sit's empty, but I finished the rest of the upgrade over the last couple nights.

I kept the stock HU, and ran speaker level leads back to the trunk, into a 4 channel LOC and then to a PG Tantrum 400.4 amp. I also spliced in a lead to the main power wire to the HU and ran it to a little turn-on switch that senses a signal from one of the speaker wires and provides a turn on lead. I mounted some Infinity Reference components in the doors and used the "standard" output connection for the tweeters.

I had read a number of threads warning of the crappy stock HU so it was with a bit of trepidation that I fired it up... My first thought was "Damn, maybe they were right", as it didn't sound good at all. After a fair bit of tweaking though, I can now say that is sounds great. I spent quite a bit of time with various gain combinations and ended up turning the variable LOC down to about a third of it's max output (somewhere about 3volts probably), and used a fairly high gain on the amp (about half max). I also had to go back into the doors and switch the tweeter connections to the -3db settings. It now sounds well balanced with HU settings of +1 on Bass and 0 on Treble. I get no amp hiss even at high levels and no "system" noise from the car. The Reference speakers really sound pretty damn good (I also had them in my previous car) and vibrate the heck out of the side mirrors by themselves, but the sub should really provide the "fullness" and deep punch it's still lacking.

All in all I'm very happy. I'm sure that full top end components and an aftermarket HU could give a slightly better sound, but this setup is really very solid. It's got plenty of juice to power the lower-requirement speakers I chose to good, loud volume levels. It's definitely a lot more work on the install side but the total cost was only about $700.

ron

 

glad to hear it's coming out good...

 

Ron, I am glad to hear that you are happy with the stock HU and I have some questions.
Which 4 channel LOC do you use ? PAC #OEM2 or DavidNavone #N-774 ?
I do not understand what did you mean in saying: "Used the "standard" output connection for the tweeters". Did you connected the tweeters to the crossovers with its default setting, and the sound was not good, then you come back and change the setting of the crossover to -3db ?

 

When I talked to David Navone on the phone he said to order the "new" N-774V (I ordered via Pay Pal). I think it is essentially the same as the N-774V shown on his site but he has reconfigured it slightly so that it no longer has external level adjustments. It has four separate internal adjustments now (one for each channel) that you just need to pop the cover off to access and adjust with a phillips screwdriver. IIRC, the total price was $54 including shipping.

Yes. With the Reference crossovers the only adjustment available is an alternate positive lead terminal for the tweeters (-3db). The "standard" setting was way to bright for my tastes so I switched them. I also used this same setting for the Reference set I put in my last car. FWIW, after listening to a number of newer CD's with good mastering over the weekend, I have adjusted the treble down even further via the HU settings. Now I've got the Bass set to 0, and Treble set to -3. That may all change after the sub finally shows up. The Reference components have pretty decent low end reach. I think many people that are just looking to upgrade for good sound at higher volume levels would be quite happy with a good two channel amp and the speaker set. It really sounds pretty damn good without the sub. But I know that I will really appreciate the enveloping deep bass the sub will provide and it should allow the mids to be a bit more efficient by pulling the low frequencies away from them too.

ron

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by R11

The Reference components have pretty decent low end reach.

 

No problem TR-S2K. Good luck . It's a little tedious splicing all the wires into the stock HU connector and to the LOC input leads. I soldered and shrink tubed all the wire-to-wire connections for good measure but you could also use crimp or bullet connectors. Just make sure you code the ends of the wires somehow and double check them at each step so you don't have to pull anything back apart. I found that I could pull the stock HU connector out through the opening just far enough to work on it without too much trouble. I took an old corrugated box lid and cut a hole in it so it would fit down over the shift lever to make a nice "work table" to catch the solder drippings, bits of wire sheathing and to keep the console from getting any damage. Some people don't seem to like the big wide '04 console but it sure makes for a good work platform.

ron