I've pulled out my "traditional" fiberglassed enclosure which houses two 10's(for sale now). I am completely changing the layout of the system with the exception that my monitor is not coming out of the dash!!!

Question: Can Dynamat be an effective and efficient liner of the tool kit well serving as part of an enclosure? Or will it "absorb" too much whatever? Instead of 'glassing that area(doing so would make removal a demolition effort), I am considering this. The top piece holding the subs would be secured to the "top" section of the trunk and sealed.

My idea would serve twofold. One, the entire welled area would be available air space minus speaker displacement. Two, I could remove the top plate if/when I get to the track. Since the majority of the time I will be not be at the track, I still want pretty decent sound quality. The subs are JL 10W3's.

I greatly appreciate all suggestions/experiences. Thanks in advance!

 

This must be a "dumb" question... no responses.

 

Not a dumb question, you just didn't give people very long to respond...

I suggest against using Dynamat for any sort of enclosure wall. Instead, coat the well with a few layers of wax paper, then glass it over. This way you get to use the entire well, and the glass won't stick to the well.

 

not really a dumb question... but i balk at answering this since i don't really think it's a good idea.

i think you'd find it hard to really seal the trunk well (especially if you wanted a removable top) for subs. not to mention, you might get some nasty resonances in there. i just don't know for sure. also, i wouldn't use dynamat as a sealing method for any sub enclosure. enclosures need to be very tight, and i'm just not sure how air tight the dynamat would get the well... a little leak here or there would create all kinds of noise, plus give you horrible sound.

if it were me, i would carefully line the trunk well with several layers of very heavy visqueen, then spread the excess visqueen around the trunk and bumper area for protection... i'd smooth that stuff out as close as possible to match the trunk well, then fiberglass the bottom of your enclosure right into the well. once you got the initial layers of fiberglass established, you could pop the whole enclosure out, add some strengthening layers, do your finishing work outside of the car, and have a moulded enclosure that would fit perfectly into the well and which could easily be removed when needed for track days... it would also give you almost zilch for wasted air space.

if you seriously want to pursue this -- talk to WLaurent... he has those side enclosures that almost perfectly match the trunk's contours... find out what method he used...

either way though, as tempting as it sounds -- i think your other method would not provide you a good enclosure... only frustration.

(and seriously... 2 hours isn't much time for responses...)

 

Thanks! Yes, I am impatient today. Feel like I'm spinning wheels.

I asked my question because I don't think it is a good idea. It was suggested by a local. It would fit some of my needs, but not the sonic ones.

I don't understand how glassing the well area to exact size will allow for removal. The well, when fully exposed, has an overhanging seam about .5" all around except on the trunklid latching side. The original idea was to glass the enclosure and finsh(sand/paint) the inside of the enclosure and use a clear plexiglass top piece. The bad part about that is to get it out would require demo'ing it.

Any add'l ideas are appreciated and sought after! And Mac, LED's instead of neon is being considered.

 

That plexiglass top with a painted finish sounds cool!!! I thought about the same thing too, but decided against it because I didn't want to take out my liner. Here's my situation if this helps at all...

This is still in the process so don't ask for pictures...

I have a 12W6v2 so I need the whole well area and I still have the lining in my trunk...

I lined the welled area with aluminum foil. Then I sprayed "Pam" spray oil on that to keep the resin from sticking. With fiberglass cloth and resin I then made the beginning of my mold. 1 layer was enough and I took it out of my trunk so I could add more layers(and not have my car stink, just the garage...). Unfortunately, we went from fall to winter in a matter of days and I didn't get a chance to finish (needs to be over 60 degrees). I just need a couple more layers and then I'll mold an MDF top with cutout to it. Totally removable...

Good luck!!!

 

Again, thanks. What exactly is the volume of air space in the well part of our trunk? My subs require .6-.9 cubic ft per sub.

And I have a nice, new kerosene heater for the gee-rage!

 

i wasn't aware that you were set on removing the carpet, and thus stated my idea based on the concept that you'd be building in the lined well. also, there is no reason that you couldn't finish the fiberglass bottom, then sand and paint it and use a plexi top... all in all though, plexi is tricky to work with and will propogate even tiny cracks easily.

based on b0mbrman's comments in the Audio FAQ, the well should give you 1.2 cu. ft.

and just a word of caution... resin fumes + hot heater/open flame + enclosed space = big badda boom.

 

I can't remember who, but there was somebody that actually filled it with water after they made it and reported @1.2 cu. ft.

And i agree with PJK3,

resin fumes + hot heater/open flame + enclosed space = big badda boom.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by FF2Skip
I've pulled out my "traditional" fiberglassed enclosure which houses two 10's(for sale now).