you might have 2 ignition wires or 2 acessories
some cars do and you must power both to get all the acessories such as fan and ac to work.

almost every wire in the steering column should be used

 

thats an idea. I was trying to hook up the accessory wire to the ignition wire as well, but that didnt work, so I tried the ignition wire to the accessory wire as well, that didnt work either. Dont know if there are any other free wires.

 

These timers are pretty simple devices. When the ignition is ON they activate a relay to provide ignition power in parallel with the key switch. When they see ignition power drop the internal relay continues to provide power to the ignition circuit and starts the timer. When the timer counts down it turns off the relay to shut down the ignition. I'm not sure what the accessory connection is for, why do you need to run accessories to keep the engine running?

The factory immobilizer will have no effect, since it's only used when the car is first started. Once started, the key is not required to keep the engine running.

I think you've got one of two problems; either the turbo timer is bad or you connected it wrong (OK, not a lot of brain power to make that call). You just need to find out which it is.

First off, which wires did you connect to? You should be connecting to the wires on the ignition switch itself. Coming into the ign sw is a white and a white/blk. The white powers the important parts of the ignition circuit, the white/blk runs the ACC circuit and some other stuff, like AC/heat, ABS, mirrors. You should be using the white wire as your +12v constant.

Coming out of the ignition switch is a white/red for ACC. That should go to your ACC connection (though I can't imagine why it's needed). The blk/red on the output side of the ign sw is for the AC/heat, ABS, and the radiator fan relays. You will need to power this circuit if you expect the fans to run after the key is turned off. Then there are 2 blk/yellow and 1 Org. These 3 wires are actually connected together inside the ign sw and are activated with a single pole of the switch, but feed different circuits when they go to the fuse box. The Org is for the starter and probably isn't needed for your timer. The 2 blk/yel wires are for the bulk of the ign circuit. You should be using the 2 blk/yel wires and the blk/red for the +12v ignition connections.

If your wiring is correct you should be able to simulate the functions of the timer without using the timer. Disconnect the timer, then

1. With the key out of the ignition, run a jumper from your +12v constant (white) to the ignition connection (2 blk/yel & blk/red). The entire ignition circuit should power up - dash lights, instruments, AC/heat controls, etc. If not, you've got the wrong wires.

2. If it does power up, leave the jumper in place and start the car with the key. Now turn the key off, and the engine should remain running. If it doesn't, you've got something funny going on because passing test 1 proves you can power the ignition circuit with the jumper, so it should stay powered even if you remove the key.

3. If the engine does stay running, it should shut down when you remove the jumper between +12v constant (the wht wire) and the +12v ign circuit (2 blk/yel and blk/red).

Once all that works, if you put the turbo timer back into the circuit and it doesn't work, it's a bad timer.

.

 

ok here goes nothing.. I will try to explain the best I can so I used the white/black for the ignition,
white - constant
black/red - acc

when I hook it up this way the fans stay on but the engine shuts off

white/black for the ignition,
white - constant
white/black - acc

When I hook it up this way, engine stays on but the fans shut off.

what I amtrying to do is get the engine and fans to stay on, but cant get that to happen for some reason.

 

So you didn't do any of the tests with the Turbo timer disconnected?

First off, white/blk is NOT ignition, it is constant, as described in my above post. So is white.

Since in the above arrangement you don't have any ignition circuit connected the engine dies, just like you would expect if you remove ignition power. The fans run because you are powering the AC/heat, ABS, & fan circuit via the blk/red wire. So it looks like you can leave the fans (blk/red) connected to ACC.


No surprise that the fans shut off, you disconnected them. But I don't see how the ignition still runs, all you did was connect constant power to constant power. Both white and white/black are constant power, at least according to my Honda manual covering years 2000-2005.

Try this.
Constant - white
ignition - blk/yel
acc - red/blk

If that doesn't work, I'm not sure I can help you. I think you need to take the car to someone who understands automotive wiring.

.

 

wow.. you have a great understanding of this stuff. thanks for all the helpful info. I will try your tests tonight hopefully.

 

Quick tangent but Modifry:

I have a wiring chart for Remote Start alarms and it says the Starter wire is the blue/white wire located at the left of the column, light blue 24 pin plug. Is this a mistake or what? Should I just use the orange wire connected to the ignition harness? I'm supposed to cut this and connect the key and motor side to the alarm, want to make sure I cut the right one! Thanks.

 

haha... didn't see this thread at first. I'm wiring in my Apex'i Auto Timer. Which is the red/ black? I can't find it in the schematic Honda gave.

I think webestore was confused. WHT/BLK is constant, while BLK/WHT is the Ignition wire after a 7.5 Amp Fuse.

 

Modifry, tell me if I'm getting this right. White for 12V constant, White/ Red for Accessory, and the 2 Black/ Yellow and Black/ Red for Ignition?

 

I believ e you have that right but the acc is blk/red and the ignition is the 2 black/yellow.