I have upgraded my head unit to an alpine head unit and I've upgraded my speakers to Rockford Fosgate. To be honest I am not an expert but used crutchfield to match up speakers to my head unit. Should have titled this slightly different, I like my head unit. I am unhappy with the sound.

It distorts and lacks bottom bass and clarity once you try to give it any significant amount of volume. I am not looking to go nuts here but my factory radios and speakers in my CRV are better.

These are the speakers and head unit linked below... (no amp, sub or crossovers added, just swapped the headunit and speakers)

 

The S2000 needs a powered subwoofer. Bass is sucked right out of the car, due to lack of roof and adequate sound dampener.

I have a Focal IBus 20 powered subwoofer behind each seat. Focal prices have really gone up, since I installed mine. One thing I can say, the setup is 8 years old now, and works as well as the day I installed them.

 

simply adding a sub and removing bass from from the door speaker will make it drastically better? Like, wow this sounds amazing?

 

You can keep the 6-inch speaker in the car door. I did. I just added the SW to my Alpine head unit. Subs fill-in the sound, not just the bass. Makes the imaging better. Fuller.

And yes, I thought it made the biggest difference. I mounted my SW on the false wall behind the seat.

 

What sub is that?

 

Focal IBus 20.

 

Concur with powered sub then crossover on door speakers to alleviate from bass responsibility. Many modern hu have xover config built in as programming.

An underseat powered sub in back of seat, or some can fit under front of seat.

Or the new Pioneer footwell sub. Meant to mount below dash in small cars, above passenger feet. But it'll fit perfectly under passenger carpet, slotted into the white foam wedge under there. Will be 100% invisible. Bass doesn't care about obstruction (many subs done in trunks).

Should also consider a Class D mini amp. They'll fit in dash, behind stereo if its short body digital media receiver, or passenger side underneath airbag (member Kyle did a thread on his install there). Bridged, most put out 90w rms, a serious boost for door speakers.

You'll also get a huge bump from noise damping doors. Dynamat type stuff at 25% coverage. Then thinsulate at 100%. Only add a pound or less.

Each area inside door, divide flat surfaces into virtual squares. Cut 25% size dynamat, apply center of square. Be sure to fully roll, then foil tape edges. There will be blood.

Thinsulate apply to back or door card.

Using more than 25% does nothing but add weight and lighten wallet.

Also, they sell foam kits to put behind speakers. Damps reflection. Place behind speakers. Also includes speaker ring fpr mounting.

 

Only $749.99 (each) -- and you need two -- at Crutchfield.

-- Chuck

 

EDIT: nvm, an S2k owner reviewed them and said they did little to nothing. I am going to go with a powered sub and use the headunit to filter the bass out of the door speaker. Then maybe get the Class D amp if I am still needing more.

has anyone tried these?

 

I was actually considering going with this one: