I just finished installing those Alpine SPR17s last week.

I reccomend using the Alpine MRP-F250 amp as it'll feed 100watts RMS x2 if you bridge it which I did. This amp will also fit under the driver seat as well (about 2cm back from that bump in the floor board thing).

As for speaker wire, I went overboard. I used Monster Cable 402 XLN Xtreme. Looking at the diameter of this stuff its almost as wide as a dime!!! It took me almost an hour to force it through the rubber wireloom grommet but I'm extremly pleased with the results.

As for Subs I'm waiting for darknight's sub box. Once that arrives I'll be adding an 12" type r sub with an M650 amp.

Good luck with your isntall

 

okay got a couple questions about this setup. Is it okay that the RMS rating at the amp is only 100rms and the speakers can take 110rms? or is this something that doesnt really matter/cannot tell a difference. Or could under powering the speakers a little harm them in any way?

Also is it any better or worse to go with a bridged connection as opposed to non bridged same wattage? is it any harder on amp/speakers?

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for all the help

 

The bridged RMS rating generally is a bit over 2x the non-bridged power rating. Not that I am an expert, I have never heard of an amp that would give the same power ratings in both modes. In the case of the Alpine MRP-F250 amp, it is 40W in non-bridged mode, and 100W in bridged mode, using 4-ohm loads. This amp can only handle 2-ohm speakers in non-bridged mode (50W), per the specs I am now reading.

Generally speaking, your speakers have two different power ratings. One which is the typical power it wants, and the second is the maximum power it can handle; much of the time, you only get the second in the specs. The amp in question needs to be spec'ed at somewhere in between the two aforementioned numbers. If you want to drive the speakers to their max, then you need an amp that can put out that max power. You can also get an amp that is spec'ed at a higher rating than the speakers; in that case, you need to be careful not to blow the speakers.

I hope this helps.

 

yes that helps a lot actually.My only question is would i be using 4 or 2 ohms?. If im running on 4 ohms this amp would work, right? if Im running on 2, then it will be unable to bridge thus wasting half the power and 2 channels. Am I understand correctly?

 

That won't depend on the bridging...

If you are using 4 ohm speakers and bridge a 50x4 to two channels (say 100x2) then you'll have 100w driven into two channels with a 4 ohm load.

 

okay so I went to an install shop today and I'm even more confused. I guess what it boils down to is do I want a sub? Does anyone have any input on these speakers? the guy at the shop said they have absolutely no bass and i would want to get a sub. Do these speakers have less than stock bass? If I do in fact NEED a sub woofer (or have less bass than stock) then should i get a 5 channel amp? bridge 2?...god im so confused... lol sorry guys.

 

Sorry for the delay.

The best thing I can advise you to do is to go audition speakers you are thinking of putting into your car. Speakers are so very subjective; what sounds good to you, may sound horrible to me, and vice verse. Once you have figured out which speakers you like, then try to determine what amp you will need to drive the speakers. As far as a sub is concerned, that is yet another subjective decision. If you decide to get a sub, then by all means, get an amp that can also drive the door speakers and the sub.

As an example, I auditioned a bunch of different speakers at various different shops (after looking here in the forums for what others had been getting/recommending), and decided on some MB Quart RCE216 speakers. I then purchased a four channel amp (Phoenix Gold Tantrum 600.4, which by the way, is no longer available). Two channels of the amp are dedicated to the front speakers (75W per channel, stereo) and two channels bridged for my sub (300 W into 4ohm, ~400 W into 2 ohm).

If you make your purchasing decisions in the right order, you won't get so confused. Also, don't feel embarrassed to ask questions; it is the only way you will not make any major mistakes. Most people here understand that not everyone is an electrical wizard/engineer.

 

oh don't worry about it its all good.

Anyway I decided to go with alpine type r components because i felt they are the best at bestbuy, and with my discount picked um up for a little over 100 bucks. Bought an amp, and amp wiring. I think all i need now is battery terminals, maybe speaker wire and i should be off

 

Glad things are coming to fruition for you.

 

Indeed now I pretty much have everything.

What gauge wire would you guys recommend for 100watts rms? thanks.

on my pioneer headunit there is no option that I see where i can shut down the internal AMP so should I run a dedicated power line to power an amp I'm not even using?