Wiring your S2000's new ICE setup
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 0
From: Hopedale, MA
Oh yeah and don't forget to upgrade the fuse that you have next to the battery 
you should have a 60amp fuse or even maybe a 70 amper in there for both amps what ever your amp company recommends for each amp.
you should have a 60amp fuse or even maybe a 70 amper in there for both amps what ever your amp company recommends for each amp.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco
Originally Posted by darkknight1999,Dec 29 2004, 05:29 AM
Oh yeah and don't forget to upgrade the fuse that you have next to the battery you should have a 60amp fuse or even maybe a 70 amper in there for both amps what ever your amp company recommends for each amp.
you should have a 60amp fuse or even maybe a 70 amper in there for both amps what ever your amp company recommends for each amp.Darkknight, I also have a couple of hopefully quick questions about those two grounding points in the trunk. Do you happen to know the bolt sizes? Aren't they metric? I have some 5/16" and 7/16" ring terminals I'd like to use. Will either fit?
I also noticed the body beneath those bolts is painted. I guess that means I have some scraping/sanding to do, right?
Thanks.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 88,444
Likes: 21
From: Pt. A to Pt. B via VTEC!!
Originally Posted by darkknight1999,Dec 29 2004, 08:26 AM
Actually you'll be just fine with that 4 gauge lead off the battery running to a fused distribution block in your trunk. Your honestly not running enough to warrant a 1/O cable, unless you want to. But just don't think you don't 'have to' because it would be overkill.
Just get a "fused" distribution block like Farkey said. Run your 4 gauge to that and split it into to 6 or 8 gauge cables, then run those to your amps and you'll be just fine. Just make sure you get a fused block
Just get a "fused" distribution block like Farkey said. Run your 4 gauge to that and split it into to 6 or 8 gauge cables, then run those to your amps and you'll be just fine. Just make sure you get a fused block
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 11,288
Likes: 0
From: Hopedale, MA
Nothing... I'm a big fan of overkill... I think everyone here knows that however I just don't want him to feel like he "has to" buy new power wire. He can just split the 4 gauge to save the money if he wanted to 
I'm a big fan of overkill... I think everyone here knows that however I just don't want him to feel like he "has to" buy new power wire. He can just split the 4 gauge to save the money if he wanted to
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 88,444
Likes: 21
From: Pt. A to Pt. B via VTEC!!
Originally Posted by darkknight1999,Dec 29 2004, 12:17 PM
Nothing... I'm a big fan of overkill... I think everyone here knows that however I just don't want him to feel like he "has to" buy new power wire. He can just split the 4 gauge to save the money if he wanted to
I'm a big fan of overkill... I think everyone here knows that however I just don't want him to feel like he "has to" buy new power wire. He can just split the 4 gauge to save the money if he wanted to
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria
[QUOTE=MacGyver,Nov 12 2004, 06:58 PM] Also, high up on the firewall behind the battery is a grommet that leads into the windshield wiper mechanical area... I run wires into that grommet, along the top of the firewall (zip tie stuff away form the wiper mechanics and motor), back out a similar grommet on the driver's side firewall, down the firewall, then into the grommet mentioned earlier by the clutch pedal.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,134
Likes: 3
From: Columbia, MD
Remove the windshield wipers (just unscrew the nuts on top with a ratchet), remove the rubber strip along the inside of the engine bay, remove the 7 clips just under the rubber strip, then pull.
