YADMST (Yet Another Design My System Thread)
02-10-2010, 12:11 PM
#51
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Hahaha! Bonuses!
OK, yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking, just bolt 'em down against the rear.
The SAX-100.4 has connections on both ends, so it would need to be mounted a few inches up or sideways, but it's also kind of W I D E, so the trim would have to be hacked up a bit.
I'm going to go play around in the trunk a little, take some measurements, check a few things out.
OK, yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking, just bolt 'em down against the rear.
The SAX-100.4 has connections on both ends, so it would need to be mounted a few inches up or sideways, but it's also kind of W I D E, so the trim would have to be hacked up a bit.
I'm going to go play around in the trunk a little, take some measurements, check a few things out.
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02-12-2010, 02:25 PM
#52
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New Hertz HSL 165.4 to be shipped out on Monday! (or Tuesday, er, not sure the shipping action on Prez Day...).
They're the 2009 models (the current) which made several improvements over the previous model/variant.
I figured that even though the HAT Imagine were very interesting, I like the idea of the outboard (and adjustable) x-over, and these were always at the top of my list. I get them and hate them, it won't cost me much to get out of them and into a set of the HATs.
Still no clue about the sub, but I'm going to pursue a trunk mounted amp setup - I'll post when (if? hahaha) I get rolling on it
They're the 2009 models (the current) which made several improvements over the previous model/variant.
I figured that even though the HAT Imagine were very interesting, I like the idea of the outboard (and adjustable) x-over, and these were always at the top of my list. I get them and hate them, it won't cost me much to get out of them and into a set of the HATs.
Still no clue about the sub, but I'm going to pursue a trunk mounted amp setup - I'll post when (if? hahaha) I get rolling on it
02-12-2010, 02:34 PM
#53
[QUOTE=[DT],Feb 12 2010, 06:25 PM] New Hertz HSL 165.4 to be shipped out on Monday! (or Tuesday, er, not sure the shipping action on Prez Day...).
They're the 2009 models (the current) which made several improvements over the previous model/variant.
I figured that even though the HAT Imagine were very interesting, I like the idea of the outboard (and adjustable) x-over, and these were always at the top of my list.
They're the 2009 models (the current) which made several improvements over the previous model/variant.
I figured that even though the HAT Imagine were very interesting, I like the idea of the outboard (and adjustable) x-over, and these were always at the top of my list.
02-13-2010, 02:04 PM
#54
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I'll be running passive for now. All I read said the Hertz crossovers are pretty outstanding, and they're setup to go active *if* I want to mount another amp (and rerun power).
***
I really like the trunk rear wall option. The space between the trunk hinge and the spare is perfect for the Sundown, so I'm going to make a rack for that area, I'll just need to figure out how to secure it (though I have some interesting ideas!)
Anybody know where people get the carpet that matches the trunk? Figured I'd at least slap on a carpeted finish.
***
I really like the trunk rear wall option. The space between the trunk hinge and the spare is perfect for the Sundown, so I'm going to make a rack for that area, I'll just need to figure out how to secure it (though I have some interesting ideas!)
Anybody know where people get the carpet that matches the trunk? Figured I'd at least slap on a carpeted finish.
02-13-2010, 02:22 PM
#55
I'd expect you could find a similar carpet at any carpet store. Should only need 1yd of the stuff.
I highly recommend you run that 100.4 active from the start. You'll already have the doors apart to wire/install the speakers, and regardless of how the xovers are - they're no match for the fully adjustable xovers built into the amp.
I highly recommend you run that 100.4 active from the start. You'll already have the doors apart to wire/install the speakers, and regardless of how the xovers are - they're no match for the fully adjustable xovers built into the amp.
02-14-2010, 08:50 AM
#57
Originally Posted by [DT
,Feb 14 2010, 09:25 AM] Any recommendations for dampening material? Worthwhile in the S?
A few folks have suggested Damplifier Pro (~$55 for 13/sq/ft).
A few folks have suggested Damplifier Pro (~$55 for 13/sq/ft).
You'll still have the noise from the soft top and extra weight that's not easily removable.
02-14-2010, 01:00 PM
#59
People usually say the volume of the wind noise is approximately equal to the volume of the engine noise if you don't have a hardtop.
If that's assumed to be exactly true, you'd get a max of about 3dB by dynamatting/damplifiering/otherwise quieting the crap out of the car. Obviously if it's not true you can make up more (or less) than that, but the point remains--you'll still have all the wind noise even if you damp out nearly all of the undercar road and engine noise.
Now, when you add a hardtop or a roof liner things would be different. But in any case, it adds weight to the car (along with cost), so I've personally been a bit hesitant. If I do any it, I'll use an 80/20 type approach and go light.
If that's assumed to be exactly true, you'd get a max of about 3dB by dynamatting/damplifiering/otherwise quieting the crap out of the car. Obviously if it's not true you can make up more (or less) than that, but the point remains--you'll still have all the wind noise even if you damp out nearly all of the undercar road and engine noise.
Now, when you add a hardtop or a roof liner things would be different. But in any case, it adds weight to the car (along with cost), so I've personally been a bit hesitant. If I do any it, I'll use an 80/20 type approach and go light.
02-14-2010, 01:09 PM
#60
Originally Posted by ace123,Feb 14 2010, 05:00 PM
People usually say the volume of the wind noise is approximately equal to the volume of the engine noise if you don't have a hardtop.
If that's assumed to be exactly true, you'd get a max of about 3dB by dynamatting/damplifiering/otherwise quieting the crap out of the car. Obviously if it's not true you can make up more (or less) than that, but the point remains--you'll still have all the wind noise even if you damp out nearly all of the undercar road and engine noise.
Now, when you add a hardtop or a roof liner things would be different. But in any case, it adds weight to the car (along with cost), so I've personally been a bit hesitant. If I do any it, I'll use an 80/20 type approach and go light.
If that's assumed to be exactly true, you'd get a max of about 3dB by dynamatting/damplifiering/otherwise quieting the crap out of the car. Obviously if it's not true you can make up more (or less) than that, but the point remains--you'll still have all the wind noise even if you damp out nearly all of the undercar road and engine noise.
Now, when you add a hardtop or a roof liner things would be different. But in any case, it adds weight to the car (along with cost), so I've personally been a bit hesitant. If I do any it, I'll use an 80/20 type approach and go light.
I'm looking at installing the HardDog roll bar and that will require removing all of the stock plastics. I haven't decided how I'm going to deal with the extra road noise in the cabin this will result in, but I'm leaning toward a thin mat of closed-cell foam covered with carpet. Something removable, but should help cut down on the extra road noise.
The biggest drawback, IMO, to dynamat, et al is that it's a permanent(ish) weight increase. Everything else I'm doing to the car (except the wiring itself) can be readily removed for a track day (or a day at the Dragon, etc). Dynamat isn't something that can be pulled and reinstalled in such a fashion...