Howdy Folks!

Well, one thing led to another, lots of OOT, other misc fun, etc., and only now am I finally getting to installing my system. I'll have pictures to compliment this too, though it's more of the same

My original, "design" thread is here:

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...ic=749518&st=0

Brief recap of equipment:

TO BE INSTALLED

HSK 165.4 ('10 model) 6.5" components
Sundown 100.4D amp
Knukonceptz KarmaSS wire kit


EXISTING

Alpine IDA-X100 (w/ Modifry harness)


POWER

I pulled the battery and went through the grommet/firewall right underneath (a main wiring harness goes through the same spot). I was going to try to use the grommet opening itself, but just wound up punching a small hole just above the tube (the actual firewall opening is pretty big).

The power drops down right in the passenger footwell. Originally I pulled it along the door sill area, but undid that pretty quickly realizing I'd want to use the door sills for speaker wires. It's now down the center console lower corner, where it's pretty hidden under the carpet. One end is ziptied to the battery hold down, the other is in the trunk with plenty of slack.

I'll get to the ground later.


SPEAKER WIRING (Part 1)

While I had the sill out, I ran the passenger speaker cable (left lots of slack on both ends). I pulled the plastic from the corner (it has half of the "brushes" that sit around the top), and the rear "duct", slipped it up through a cutout where are wires are pulled and also pulled it into the trunk. I removed the spare for access, basically with that rear duct type panel out (two screws and pull) there's a huge opening into the trunk. With the sill cover off you can also pop off the footwell plastic on the outer side to really stuck up the wire (and I believe access the tube that connects the door).

I started the drivers side - same drill corner panel, duct, door sill, then I got the crazy idea to go ahead and check out the door and mounting for the speakers. The door panel comes off super easy, one plastic pin, 3 screws (two in the handle, one in the front corner), lift out and up, disconnect 3 plugs.


**QUESTIONS**

OK, while I knew there were some shallower options, and potentially better fitments, I really wanted the HSKs, so here I am.

I pulled out the stock midrange, and then the mount. The plastic mount does not seem to line up at all. Plus, as I knew from reading, it would mount the speaker way too deep.

I read that you can only mount a speaker about 3/4" out (I'm assuming that's measured from flush at the bare door) before you contact the door panel grill.

The baskets on these speakers have supports that prevent them from mounting very deep anyway - I might need to snap some pics to illustrate. I definitely do not want to modify the opening in the door (I don't think...).

I'm wondering if anyone has mounted speakers in the stock location, but actually out through the door panel, where you'd use the speaker grill and it would be exposed??

I kind of bailed on my wiring for now, since this may be a _long_ delay while I sort out how to get these mounted. I can get the spacers made, but it looks like they would be closer to 1" since that's as far into the door as the speaker will go.

Here's the mounting specifications (in mm):

Outer Ø
Woofer 167
Tweeter 44

Mounting Ø
Woofer 146
Tweeter 41

Total depth
Woofer 79
Tweeter 26

Mount. depth
Woofer 69
Tweeter 15

That appears to be ~3.1" depth, which I think is a bit deep.

I'm sure anything can be done, it's just how much custom work I might need.

For additional reference:

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/H...rgy_HSK165.pdf

Thanks!

 

I'd be very hesitant to cut up the door panel. Those aren't cheap if you screw up. That's my entire rationale, so if you differ in opinion, cool.

You'll be fine with a 3/4" spacer. Mine has plenty of room and is only 2mm less deep. Here are the specs:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pio/pe/i...3TS-C720PRS.pdf

I got a jigsaw for $30 or so, a piece of MDF for $5, and sprayable epoxy paint to seal it. I also used a drill with a large and small bit--I forget the sizes--and a sharpie. I traced the plastic factory one onto the wood using a sharpie, then cut it, then marked and match-drilled holes for mounting. It worked great. There's a walkthrough with pictures on this forum--that's what I used to do it. I think I referenced it in my build thread.

 

OK, cool, I re-read your thread today in fact.

I figured I was buying some MDF to make my amp rack anyway (a giant sheet is < $10) so a sheet of 3/4" would be awesome *IF* these monsters would fit.

I'm going to buy a new jigsaw too, great tool to have, and my last one met with a mysterious fate

The basket design has me a little concerned, that it won't sit flush with a 3/4" spacer (because it won't go into the factory cutout in the door far enough. I'll take a look again.

Thanks a TON!!

 

I wanted to cross check this:

Is there any risk from the heat generated by the tranny tunnel? I mean, there are other wires there so I'm assuming not (and that by design, power wire is pretty resilient).

If you were sitting in the passenger seat, it's under the carpet to your left, pushed down close to the seat rail (so in the corner of the tranny hump and floor) - and actually it's kind of hanging around the lower 1/3rd point.

 

Risk of heat from the tranny tunnel doing what, melting the wire? I wouldn't think to worry about that. If it were to melt, the wire jacketing would have at least gotten over 200F, and more likely gotten to about 300F. The passenger would be rather uncomfortable if that were the case.

If you were to cut the jacket by accident on a sharp edge while pulling the wire through, not fuse it, and manage to get a short, then yeah, I suppose that could happen. But not on a correct install.

 

Yeah, it was more a question of the wire itself melting, but I had no idea about the thermal resistance, but assumed it would be fine (didn't want to commit to the location 100% without confirming it).

Awesome. I've got the doors both apart, the other wiring laid down, center console out. I need to actually pull the HU and get the RCA/remote wire hooked up. I've got a handle on a decently priced tuning/imprint module, and this would sort of be the time to install it as well (with the HU out), but I'm not 100% convinced it's a huge difference.

 

Quick bit of math:

Door mounting depth to window spool is (from memory) 54mm.

25.4mm in an inch, 19.05mm in 3/4".

54 + 19.05 = 73.05

Plenty of clearance with a 3/4" spacer.

Use of a 1" spacer, generally, would only require cleaning the square molding grid off the rear of the speaker grille (that's what I did).

I guarantee if you build a spacer, you can easily make the interior cutout large enough to accommodate the basket (I actually shrank mine so my 5 1/2" speakers would mount up). Investing in a quality circle jig is not a bad way to go - I wish I could, if only my router fit any of the ones on the market (a friend from work is currently building me one with his CNC...).


Where do you plan to mount the amp?

 

If' you're talking Imprint vs. nothing, the difference in untuned vs tuned for my stereo was quite significant. It was very noticeable to untrained ears, not just mine.

 

Awesome, thanks again guys. I might head up and get my extra supplies this morning. 3/4" appears to measure out just about perfect.

My plan is to take the balance of the MDF and build a simple rack in the trunk, vertically against the back of the trunk (as you face it looking in). It would be to the driver's side, in the flat area to the left of the spare tire hump.

That works for me for a few considerations:

- very little space compromised
- easy access to the amp
- reasonably ventilated

I've seen a few of these, and it looks like a properly sized board will slide up and behind the trunk springs, and fit snug at the bottom. I suppose you could even use some H&L on the bottom edge, or even make a simple latch. My Z06 had a trunk partition that was basically the same and never moved even on track.

I'll need to score some carpet that matches the OEM stuff at some point, but that's way low on the priority list.

So stoked this is finally getting done, I *hate* having stuff sitting around not being used.

 

Not to hijack this thread or anything, but I was curious if you are going to install dynamat in your doors as well (did you install dynamat in your doors Ace?)? I was/am debating whether it's "worth it," but I guess I can always go back in and dynamat them if there is rattling. Is there any rattling from the doors w/o dynamat w/ s2ks?

I'm going to finally get around to installing my 2 channel amp and polk components this weekend, and was debating on dynamat/sound deadening or not. Also, are there any big downsides to putting the amp under the driver's seat? I test fit it and it looks like it'll fit just fine, but figured I'd ask if there was ever problems with water leaking/etc. Under the passenger seat doesn't look like an option on the '06+ MY's because of the damn sensor.