Another noob tuning flashpro
EDIT:
Okay, I deleted my first post! I finally found the thread on hondata that the toda calibration's ignition limit tables were wrong. WTFreak! Ive been running that calibration for so many months now. This whole time i thought my clutch was broken making noise at low rpm high load, but it was actually excessive pinging all along!!! Hopefully i didnt damage my engine too much. Why didnt hondata update the calibration in their latest software updates??? what the hell.
Anyway, I added my datalog and fuel tables on post #7.
My setup is:
2008 s2000 cr
stock intake arm and box with aem 3" dry cone filter
stock header
2.5" berk test pipe
3" challenge usa race exhaust
hondata flashpro with custom tune
Okay, I deleted my first post! I finally found the thread on hondata that the toda calibration's ignition limit tables were wrong. WTFreak! Ive been running that calibration for so many months now. This whole time i thought my clutch was broken making noise at low rpm high load, but it was actually excessive pinging all along!!! Hopefully i didnt damage my engine too much. Why didnt hondata update the calibration in their latest software updates??? what the hell.
Anyway, I added my datalog and fuel tables on post #7.
My setup is:
2008 s2000 cr
stock intake arm and box with aem 3" dry cone filter
stock header
2.5" berk test pipe
3" challenge usa race exhaust
hondata flashpro with custom tune
Best way to dial in ignition is on a dyno. I wouldn't touch the individual cylinder option as you don't have it on the dyno. You can retard where you're having knock at by 2% until there isn't knock, but this only works if the knock you see is ignition related. Since you're new to flashpro tuning, I'd suggest re-turning the tune back to stock and take it to get tuned or e-tuned at least. You could ONLY adjust fuel but that's your own risk.
^^ youre right, im not going to mess with the ignition timing. Results are inconsistent, just did another datalog and ended up with knock count in the 100s. Im ditching the toda calibration all together. It makes the most descent power (using gernby's edyno) in the midrange compared to other calibrations but all that knock has me worried.
I ran another calibration I got from a friend tuned for his car with vtec set at 4k with low-rpm high-fuel settings similar to that of the mugen setting and only ended up with 1 knock count after a 2k to redline wot run!! Must be because of the increase in fuel in lower rpm's. I'll just add some more fuel to bring the a/f down to around 12.8-12.9. It's hovering around 13.6 all across the board with a rich dip to 12.4 at 4750rpm and lean dip to 14.06 at 5592rpm. Otherwise its pretty flat at around 13.6a/f corr. before and after that fluctuation. Am I on the right path here :/
Tuning wise -well self-tuning at home that is without a dyno- is this pretty much the extent of what we can do at home datalogging on the street making changes? Or is there more to it than this?
I ran another calibration I got from a friend tuned for his car with vtec set at 4k with low-rpm high-fuel settings similar to that of the mugen setting and only ended up with 1 knock count after a 2k to redline wot run!! Must be because of the increase in fuel in lower rpm's. I'll just add some more fuel to bring the a/f down to around 12.8-12.9. It's hovering around 13.6 all across the board with a rich dip to 12.4 at 4750rpm and lean dip to 14.06 at 5592rpm. Otherwise its pretty flat at around 13.6a/f corr. before and after that fluctuation. Am I on the right path here :/
Tuning wise -well self-tuning at home that is without a dyno- is this pretty much the extent of what we can do at home datalogging on the street making changes? Or is there more to it than this?
Why not just have Greg Esmond (Gernby) tune your car? Messing around in the ECU can mess up the engine.
As far as I'm concerned just tuning for maximum horsepower just produces a "fluff" number. I'm not interested in the peak so much as the area under the power curve. Where does the power come on? The Gernby Process is detailed and requires entering 7 different calibrations and sending the captured data to Greg. He modifies the settings and sends it back to you to data log and send that log to him. Usually followed by another cycle of calibrations; sometimes more. Mine took three complete cycles.
If I sound like a "fanboy" I am. My car is much more powerful at all speeds since Greg tuned it.
-- Chuck
As far as I'm concerned just tuning for maximum horsepower just produces a "fluff" number. I'm not interested in the peak so much as the area under the power curve. Where does the power come on? The Gernby Process is detailed and requires entering 7 different calibrations and sending the captured data to Greg. He modifies the settings and sends it back to you to data log and send that log to him. Usually followed by another cycle of calibrations; sometimes more. Mine took three complete cycles.
If I sound like a "fanboy" I am. My car is much more powerful at all speeds since Greg tuned it.
-- Chuck
Imy definitely considering an etune. But really wanted to learn the basics so I could modify things down the road when needed...esp after a Profesional tune when boosted. Just playing around with it since I have the Flashpro already trying to learn how to tune a little
Alright, I think I'm getting the hang of tuning fuel. I havent even touched ignition yet. The biggest help to tuning the afr with changes Ive made are two things. First, modifications to my wot lambda high and low tables from 12.98 to 12.46 in appropriate columns. Second, is altering my rpm points so that I'm better able to tune specific points where my datalogs show a sharp dip/spike in the graph. So far, I've only altered my fuel tables to straighten out my afr curve. As you can see, I have some abrupt changes in my fuel curves but they definitely helped straighten my afr out (btw my afr curve was all over the place initially). Ive read many times its good to keep a nice smooth consistent table but so far i havent been able to make it absolutely smooth while maintaining a smooth afr.
Can someone take a look at my datalog and fuel tables and lmk if im on the right track? Im going to play with it some more to get it even straighter. But ultimately i want a near linear line from low rpm to redline to be from 13:1 to 12:8 respectively.
Also, Ive been using gernbys edyno on excel to try and track my changes. Does my ignition and knock retard table look right? Also, i was able to bring up the torque around 4700rpm considerably just by altering my fuel tables. Does ignition tuning effect torque output more than tuning fuel? I seem to still be missing a lot of midrange torque others have off good tunes.
thanks.
Oh sorry, and blue line is my most recent run.
Can someone take a look at my datalog and fuel tables and lmk if im on the right track? Im going to play with it some more to get it even straighter. But ultimately i want a near linear line from low rpm to redline to be from 13:1 to 12:8 respectively.
Also, Ive been using gernbys edyno on excel to try and track my changes. Does my ignition and knock retard table look right? Also, i was able to bring up the torque around 4700rpm considerably just by altering my fuel tables. Does ignition tuning effect torque output more than tuning fuel? I seem to still be missing a lot of midrange torque others have off good tunes.
thanks.
Oh sorry, and blue line is my most recent run.
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Ive also been going off the AF value NOT the AF Corr value. Hondata's help page says to use the AF Corr value but i noticed it was based on the newer civics. Somewhere I read for the s2000's, the AF value is more accurate reading when compared to an aftermarket wideband.
Ive also been going off the AF value NOT the AF Corr value. Hondata's help page says to use the AF Corr value but i noticed it was based on the newer civics. Somewhere I read for the s2000's, the AF value is more accurate reading when compared to an aftermarket wideband.
Originally Posted by Mijae007' timestamp='1447443677' post='23802800
Ive also been going off the AF value NOT the AF Corr value. Hondata's help page says to use the AF Corr value but i noticed it was based on the newer civics. Somewhere I read for the s2000's, the AF value is more accurate reading when compared to an aftermarket wideband.









