Mijae007

I've read so many threads where af is determined to be closer to actual afr. Here's a thread: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/760...alues-vs-lm-1/
I'm basically going off AF keeping my afr starting at 13.1 down to 12.5 towards redline. My afr curve looks a whole lot better (straighter) now then on stock tuned map where there was a huge rich area midrange (I'll post a picture when I get home). I think this is safe since hondata says to target 14.5 af corr values.

I've advanced my high cam ignition up to only 2% or so and have gotten a descent amount of tq increase according to edyno graph. The dip in torque from 4.5 to 5k rpm is also much less but still there. Also on software 2.3.3.0 I've unchecked "overrun throttle opening enabled" and car runs much more responsive without the Rev hang between shifts. This was weird because my car never had rev hang even on the same calibration until I updated my software ??

Mijae007

^^^this is what I've been told too. OP, stop playing around before it gets expensive. Pay for a tune/ etune and call it a day. $500 now is better than $5k later
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I want to learn it this stuff actually isn't that difficult just have to wrap your head around what all the different parameters are and how to adjust them properly.

JUSTINTHECOASTIE

^^^this is what I've been told too. OP, stop playing around before it gets expensive. Pay for a tune/ etune and call it a day. $500 now is better than $5k later
[/quote]
I want to learn it this stuff actually isn't that difficult just have to wrap your head around what all the different parameters are and how to adjust them properly.
[/quote]
Safer to learn from your tuner. Ask all the questions you would ask us to him/her. I do it and they usually love educating others

yamahaSHO

AF correction values are only coming into play at closed loop (idle/cruise). Once you go open loop there isn't any feedback and it's going off what is on your map. Yes, you want to get your actual AFR at or near commanded values, however, if you have a large correction factor to get you there, your fueling is off in those cells.

Honestly, you'll have to try to blow this motor up in NA form, keep playing around with it. It's not like you're trying to tune a boosted Subaru that wants to blow up. Hell, I sometimes turn off corrections when I'm dialing in a car.

Mijae007

okay, i need some feedback. no matter what i do to the timing, i cant get the tq curve to make more power. is the dip in tq curve at 4500-5000rpm a matter of tuning or a mechanical part? ive read some previous threads and it looks like with just an addition of a test pipe that dip gets eliminated even on the hondata stock tuned cal but it hasnt been the case for me.

and when i advance my timing 1deg across 9 and 10 my entire tq curve drops. do i keep advancing it some more until i start to gain tq or stop there? knock counts are between 0 and 1 per run.

blue line in edyno is latest run

Mijae007

Hopefully i dont blow it up in the process. Im definitely moving in the right direction...i think lol. I further improved my afr. it starts at 13.5 to 12.7 towards redline. and its "fairly" linear now. I'll continue to work on the little decline towards 4k (my vtec point) and the small lean spike right at 4k. Otherwise it looks ten times better than when it did initially.

As for timing ive been getting 1 knock count every other run right around 4200rpm. There was a small sudden decline in IGN value from 29 to 27 at 4200 rpm. I noticed increasing the values in my knock ignition tables at those cells helped smooth out my timing curve nearly eliminating knock count. Now my ignition curve gradually goes from 29 to 28 to 27 on down to redline.

Anyway, im new to this so anybody correct me if im doing something wrong. I just thought id share my experience so others can learn from my mistakes. I still want to know how to better manipulate timing to gain more midrange torque. I have a test pipe but my tq graph looks like im still running a stock cat with that dip. ??