deibit

Hi!

I have a NA S2000with an eManage piggyback.

I have been using IFR8H-11 plugs, I did not re-gap them (they are pre-gapped at OEM specs thought). The problem is that I get too much pops on acceleration.. and this is causing me overheating problems in the wideband.. which is kinda annoying considering that the wideband is feeding the e-manage. When the wideband overheats, my car protects itself and blocks open-loop (kinda fancy feature, but annoying)

I have thought of two solutions for this problems.. the first is to use a heatsink in the wideband. which may help in solving the symptoms but not the cause.

I want to solve the direct cause of the overheat (the cat-popping). I am almost confident that the plugs have something to do with it (I have tried various ignition settings, including "stock" ignition settings and the pops are alaways there)

Thats why I want to try with BKR8EIX plugs. My problems is that I will not feel very safe if I have to regap them.. is there any problem if I leave them at the pre-gapped setting?

PS- I have also Okada coilpacks (but the coilpacks are not the cause of the problem because they were installed before the eManage/new plugs, and I had no problems by then).

Swiftoy

I am running these plugs on my car and I regapped them to OEM specs. I used this to gap them http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SHC-940816. It has the hooks so you can bend the electrode back without touching the iridium tip. Needle nose pliers will work to. Just be crefull when checking the clearence with the wire gauge the plugs are not that fragile but be smart about it. There is nothing that states you CANNOT gap iridium plugs its all BS. http://www.sparkplugs.com/glossary.a...ossary.asp?kw=

Haid628

try resetting the emanage and ecu. do cold start idle for 15min then drive around town normal for 15min or so on stock timing. let both stock ecu and emange adjust and learn itself. then slowly switch settings and learn itself again. also double check your harness for loose wires or anything. if you messed with any wires for the fuel mixture light and knock light. some of those wires you messed with also connects to the ignition coil. pull codes even if you dont have an engine light there might be a pending code. do you have a test pipe or stock catalytic convertor? might want to replace a new wideband and calibrate it.

deibit

Yes I know that it's physically possible to regap the plugs.. but you know what Murphy's law say

mmm.. the thing is that I dont think that OEM gap would work well with my application.. I have already the IFR8 which are one step colder and OEM gap.. so if I regap the BKR8 i would have effectively the same kind of plugs that I have...

So I was thinking some gap in between.. but I don't know if it would be really worth it.. or I could go with the stock BKR8 gap..

(I guess I will have to try it first)

deibit

I don't think that resseting the emanage will make a difference because the emanage resets the internal maps everytime I switch on the car.

I have already reset the ECU and makes no difference.. and I tried the "OEM" ignition settings and makes no difference.. I did not touch the fuel mixture light and the knock light.. (they are unplugged)

There's no pending code in the ECU (I have a OBD logger permanently connected and it's all clean)

The wideband seems to read good.. if I compare the readings from the OEM wideband (I have a MY08) and the Innovate wideband, they read between the tolerance (the OEM reads richer and somehow slower but it's always like that)

I have a Berk HFC, that's the reason the catalizer (and therefore the wideband sensor in the header) overheats. Every "pop" is a little explosion inside the cat (and that makes things hot in the long term)

I don't have extreme popping, just from time to time, in daily drive I don't have any problem of overheating.. it's only in endurance conditions (but other guys with similar setup don't have this problem, so it should not be normal)

Swiftoy

Since you are running okada coil packs I would think you could get away with running a larger gap.

hypforlife32

okay, those plugs you have if they are the 2668 plugs they do not come gapped to oem specs. they come gapped to .030. you have to gap them to .040 and ngk does not recommend going any high. that could be your issue if you never have gapped them. on a na car .030 is to small, causing spudder like you have. gapp them to .040 and you will be fine.

deibit

I have now the 5068 and they have a 0.43" gap

http://www.ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3181

The tuner (Giles) recommended me to have less gap than OEM, but I did chose the 5068 thinking that the Okada Coil packs could compensate it.. but seems its not working perfectly

I have read that 0.30 can be too less for a NA gap (seems to be fine for turbo applications thought). but is this recomendation valid only for stock ECUs?

I'm running leaner than OEM (more difficult to ignite) and with advanced ignition timing (even more difficult)... if I add colder plugs to the equation it makes things even worse..

a shorter gap should make a stronger spark isn't it?

hypforlife32

i use to have the giles tune with intake, 70mm test pipe, header and single 70mm exhaust and never once had a problem with my 2668 gapped at 0.040 maybe try a different spark plug? i have a set of used 2668 gapped at .040 i can sell you for cheap if you want to try them. they are around 30 new. mine have maybe 1k miles on them?

Haid628

the wideband is a heated o2 sensor also. just get another one from the local part store for like 45 bucks and read the lc1 manual to recalibrate the sensor. the manaul says to calibrate it from time to time because its gets out of wack.

from the lc1 manual

Normally aspirated daily driver:
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first