When I have beento going to start the S2k in the morning when the engine is cold, it refuses to start. When the engine is warmed up or its 60 or 70 out it starts up right away... Do I just need to change the crank injector pulse table, or is it something else?

Thanks in advance,

-Josh

 

We dont have a crystal ball, what ECU are you running?

 

Sounds like ems.

You will need to adjust a combination of:
Crank injector
Initial injector pulse
Initial crank timing
And crank rpm max
And probably the top left corner (1st 2 columns) of the fuel/timing map

I have spent a Lot of time figuring mine out and its mainly trial and error

Spent a lot of time researching and studying the hondata/flashpro basemaps and seeing what I could use from those

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Heh yea I forgot to post it has a Aem 1052. I will mess around with the things you suggested and go from there. I have heard that some people have a summer tune and a winter tune. Is there any real logic to this?

 

The logic is TOTAL CONTROL.

If the ems isn't programmed to start in the cold it will have a difficult time. It will not guess, it will not compensate unless setup to do so. This is Very time consuming and tuners probably won't do it unless they have a lot of experience with your car and ems (then they'll have a highly refined basemap ideally).

The tuner cannot really tune a cold car unless you leave it overnight and the car is only truely cold about 2 to 3x a day. That will get $$$

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There's no reason to have a summer and a winter tune. Tune properly and you only need one.

The AEM base map needs about 2x the amount of fuel to properly start the car when temperatures get cold. The tables mentioned previously should take care of it.

PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you my map. It will start the car down to -10 or so with ID 1000cc injectors. Below that I haven't really tried. Also, be aware that a weak battery makes it MUCH more difficult to start the car. I had to add a second PC680 just for cold weather.

Tim

 

Put a jumper pack or battery charger on when starting the car when cold. If it starts your battery may be getting weak. This is worse if you have a relocated battery. I have seen this same problem before. An aem seems more sensitive to voltage drop over a stock ecu or kpro. Batteries do not like cold weather.

 

There is also a fuel trim for battery voltage to compensate for cranking battery.

Its very easy to over fuel during cold cranks...your iat is probably cold, coolant temp cold, battery voltage obviously lower affecting the trim mentioned above. These trims all dump more fuel during cold startup.

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Yea its a pretty old battery. Its in the stock location though. My E-mail is jb34304@yahoo.com . Please don't spam the crap out of it. Gets really annoying. I will have to try changing the trim voltage as well. I didn't mess around with that part of the tune. I have a feeling after that I will have to change the crank injector pulse table afterwards. And purchase and install a yellow top ... And I really don't want to be using a Aem basemap to run the car with. I'll just copy over a few starting variables and see if that helps. Thanks for ALL the advice, you have been very helpful.

-Josh

 

Just in case you need something to go on, here are the settings recommended by another user. He was using them with E85, but as I explain below I used them with 93 and they worked fine.

Use these at your own risk of course, but I had to switch back to 93 (from E85) and even on 93 it started up perfectly with these settings at <40 degrees F.

Like I said, YMMV though. Be careful.