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Hondata and AEM Wideband Wiring help please

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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 07:25 AM
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Default Hondata and AEM Wideband Wiring help please

Does anyone have a link or DIY on how to wire up a aem wideband to a hondata ecu? I searched here and google with zero luck. thanks
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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 09:37 AM
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On the AEM the white wire is the 'signal' wire that goes into the ECU. I think it's in the manual for your Hondata on where to tap this wire and how to calibrate it
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 10:40 AM
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I did not get a manual with my hondata, only a 1 page QuickStart guide. Where does the white wire go into the ecu?
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Old Oct 5, 2014 | 09:09 AM
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how about the stock 2nd 02 sensor input pin? then recalibrate for the AEM

edit:

just searched google and found this

http://www.hondata.com/help/flashpro..._interface.htm
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 03:22 AM
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That look like it's instructions for a flashpro and i'm using a 00-05 kpro
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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 11:30 AM
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EDIT: before following the instructions below please wait on confirmation or contact hondata yourself before adding a wideband into the s2000 kpro. The below instructions were for a rsx ecu and simply converted the wiring for the s2000.


http://www.xenocron.com/install/Xeno...etup-Guide.htm

Make CERTAIN, that you provide power and ground to the wideband at the exact SAME LOCATION that your ECU receives its own power and ground. For the Applications we are discussing, the following chart gives you these locations to use.

I cross referenced the plugs and terminals used in the link for the RSX ecu to the S2000 ecu.


Power - B9 (IGP2 - ignition power for ECM)

Ground - B10 (PG2 - power ground for ECM)

AEM Output - A30 (ELD)

The letter is the plug, the number is the pin. Here's the pin out to paint a picture for you.




Hondata KPRO (02-04 K-Series, KManager)



1. Open whichever tuning calibration you are running. If you are beginning your tune, setup ALL tuning related features, options and setting before trying to setup the Wideband. If your car is already tuned, open the TUNED CALIBRATION from your laptop. It is advised that you do not DOWNLOAD the calibration from the ECU, as this can possibly cause the calibration to become corrupt. ALWAYS save a copy of the original file as a backup…in case you mess up something in the calibration that causes the vehicle to run differently.

2. Goto OPTIONS à SETTINGS à Wideband Input



- Select “use an External Wideband” since this is what we are doing, and then select the wideband you are using (PLX or Innovate are selectable, AEM you will have to input manually so select CUSTOM for AEM). In my opinion, the built in INNOVATE settings are WRONG, so input them as well as AEM as follows.

Innovate
AEM








- Voltage Offset should start at 0, you may need to tweak this setting to get your gauge and ECU to match readings

- Your Voltage/Lambda Conversion Table is specific to the wideband you are using. AEM and PLX will be very similar.

- Once these are input, in the same screen go to SETTINGS à Lambda Overlay and select your Lambda Unit as AFR or Lambda, whichever you prefer.

- Then start your vehicle and let it run for at least a minute. Your wideband will take some time to warm up (it has built in heater control, and it will need to stabilize).

- Once it is running and warmed up, hit “CTRL+3” to bring up your SENSORS window and find the sensor labeled “O2” where it should be displaying some sort of Air/Fuel Ratio (or lambda if you selected this in SETTINGS.

- Hopefully the car is tuned and running well, if not adjust your air/fuel ratio (using the gauge) until the car runs and idles steady.

- Next, note any differences between your wideband GAUGE, and your “O2” reading in SMANAGER. For example, if your Gauge is reading 14.0 and your ECU (software) is reading 14.2, you have an “offset” or voltage difference which is usually caused by the differences in ground planes (search on Google if you want to understand more). Essentially here, go back into OPTIONS à SETTINGS àWideband Input and adjust the Voltage Offset box up or down, until you get the gauge and ECU to match. This box is in VOLTS, not AFR…so my suggestion is to adjust the value by “0.1” + or – until you get them to match. Negative values are ok to input here.

- Next, you will want to make sure that you match everywhere in the Air/Fuel operating range or scale that the car will run in. You can do this in a variety of different ways…my method is to make the car go 10-20% richer and follow to make sure the gauge and ECU match at this rich point…next go 10-20% leaner and make sure the ECU and gauge continue to match. If they do NOT, you can adjust the rich point (voltage = zero) in the voltage / lambda conversion table as well at the lean point (voltage = 5). This is essentially using the ECU to re-curve ever so slightly any ground differences in between the Wideband and ECU.

- You should NOT have to make large changes. Any change greater than +/- .5 volts would indicate you have a large grounding issue somewhere…you may have to investigate further and the diagnosis on how to do this is out of the scope of this article. Please search or bring it to a competent electrical specialist for the best help here.

- Once your wideband and ECU match (it does NOT have to be absolutely perfect, close enough should be fine for the purposes of tuning and sending logs to your tuner remotely, within 2% is acceptable to me) you can now complete your tuning, or setup the on boarding logging so that you have complete data for seeing how your vehicle runs on the dyno, street or track with Hondata K-Manager


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Old Oct 6, 2014 | 11:34 AM
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Here's another link that dives further in with other inputs (at the bottom) and will either further clarify things or further confuse you

http://www.hondata.com/help/kmanager...connectors.htm
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Old Oct 7, 2014 | 07:49 AM
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There you go!

Sorry I misread the title (I read the thread next to yours 'Flashpro + etc etc')
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 05:55 PM
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Pardon the ignorance but what's the benefit to doing this?
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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I think he wants to log the wideband data on the Hondata
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