Hondata for Auto-X
I auto-xed this past weekend and I am still learning the gear ratios, when to down-shift/upshift and all of that. There were 4 other s2ks there and when I asked them how they were shifting they said they were staying in 1st gear the entire course. The best time of the day was an AP1 with the higher redline. The AP2s took the remaining top spots, but you could hear them hitting the rev-limiter multiple times throughout the course. I took a different route and ran in 2nd gear and took 2nd place even though I was barely getting to vtec. So after reading up on the Hondata it seems that this is perfect for Auto-X. I can set a launch control, raise my rev-limiter so that if I need to stay in 1st like the AP1s I can, or I can lower my vtec so that I can stay in 2nd and gain the benefit of the vtec. Am I on the right track here?
Also, I live out in the boonies and the closest person that could tune my car is 6 hours away. With the Hondata can I do it all myself? What type of computer software do I need? I'd like to buy a small netbook just to keep in the car for the Hondata. Would this work?
My current engine mods:
- K&N Typhoon CAI
- Invidia 70mm Test Pipe
- 70mm N1 cat-back exhaust
Also, I live out in the boonies and the closest person that could tune my car is 6 hours away. With the Hondata can I do it all myself? What type of computer software do I need? I'd like to buy a small netbook just to keep in the car for the Hondata. Would this work?
My current engine mods:
- K&N Typhoon CAI
- Invidia 70mm Test Pipe
- 70mm N1 cat-back exhaust
You're on the right track. It must have been a very tight course if it was all 1st. Most autocrosses are mostly 2nd if not a combination of 2nd and 3rd.
Lowering VTEC is great for autocross, especially when you are starting out and can benefit more from on focusing on things other than shifting. You can do this yourself. There is a dialog box that lets you enter the rpm value for the lower window of when VTEC can* be enabled. *The ECU will only enable VTEC if the revs are within the VTEC window specified and the car is past a certain load threshold.
I'm a little hesitant to raise the rev limit on an AP2. I've seen some oil analysis that show the bearing wear significantly increases when the car is revved much higher than stock.
Launch control is cool and all, but not really that necessary. I personally don't like to have a good launch. I like to spin the tires a little bit because it's easier on the diff than getting a good hookup and the diff seems to be the weakest link on these cars.
You have a couple tuning options without making the 6 hour drive. There are a few guys who do etunes. They'll ask you some questions about your car and send you some sample calibration files. You'll then go to the dyno or go out on a safe test site and do some runs through the rev range while datalogging with the flashpro and send them the results. They'll pick a few of those calibrations to tweak and send you back some more calibrations to test. Rinse and repeat. You can also tune it yourself, but without experience and a dyno you shouldn't tune the ignition timing. You can just lower VTEC and edit the fueling tables to clean up the AFR, especially in the range that you've modified to be on the high speed cam profile. This route is going to leave some power on the table compared to having the car etuned. I went the second route at first, then had a reputable tuner tune the car and he picked up power everywhere in the rev range.
I picked up a little netbook used on ebay for the exact same reason. It stays in a rubbermaid container with my gopros, pyrometer, and other car gadgets so I can just throw it in the trunk and head out.
Lowering VTEC is great for autocross, especially when you are starting out and can benefit more from on focusing on things other than shifting. You can do this yourself. There is a dialog box that lets you enter the rpm value for the lower window of when VTEC can* be enabled. *The ECU will only enable VTEC if the revs are within the VTEC window specified and the car is past a certain load threshold.
I'm a little hesitant to raise the rev limit on an AP2. I've seen some oil analysis that show the bearing wear significantly increases when the car is revved much higher than stock.
Launch control is cool and all, but not really that necessary. I personally don't like to have a good launch. I like to spin the tires a little bit because it's easier on the diff than getting a good hookup and the diff seems to be the weakest link on these cars.
You have a couple tuning options without making the 6 hour drive. There are a few guys who do etunes. They'll ask you some questions about your car and send you some sample calibration files. You'll then go to the dyno or go out on a safe test site and do some runs through the rev range while datalogging with the flashpro and send them the results. They'll pick a few of those calibrations to tweak and send you back some more calibrations to test. Rinse and repeat. You can also tune it yourself, but without experience and a dyno you shouldn't tune the ignition timing. You can just lower VTEC and edit the fueling tables to clean up the AFR, especially in the range that you've modified to be on the high speed cam profile. This route is going to leave some power on the table compared to having the car etuned. I went the second route at first, then had a reputable tuner tune the car and he picked up power everywhere in the rev range.
I picked up a little netbook used on ebay for the exact same reason. It stays in a rubbermaid container with my gopros, pyrometer, and other car gadgets so I can just throw it in the trunk and head out.
ignore vtec when it comes to auto x, smooth slow in fast out transitions are the key. When I first started I was concerned about staying in vtec, vtec doesnt mean crap at an auto x.
I learned that running in a crx with 60hp and beating cars with 300 hp LOL
I learned that running in a crx with 60hp and beating cars with 300 hp LOL
Topplayer, you don't think having the Flashpro and lowering Vtec would impact my time at all. I understand your point, I am beating C7 Corvettes, Mustang GTs, and Camaro SSs. However, I am more concerned with going up against other S2000s and the awd beasts of STIs and EVOs. I seems to me that if my vtec were lower I could come out of corners faster and accelerate faster down the very few straight-aways that I come across. Additionally, within the next year I want to start tracking the car. You see no benefit from a lower vtec?
The Flashpro adjusts ignition, fuel, throttle response and more. It really changes how the car behaves and feels, and makes it smoother as well as more aggressive. It also opens the door for forced induction if you decide to go down that road in the future. The Flashpro could definitely help you dial your car in for autocross. We are currently having awesome sale pricing on it at the moment! PM for details!
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AutoX and anything competitive has a set of rules that changes your classing. Many of us make the mistake to mod the hell out of our car then later find if we want to be even remotely competitive we have to unmod our car which can be super expensive. You sound "new" to racing at AutoX. If you are still in your first year of racing in AutoX then don't spend a dime on any more mods. I was told this and didn't listen; but here it goes. In the beginning you don't know sh*t around a track; no matter what you think. It takes serious time to get down to where you bring your skills to a level that you can utilize modifications. If you need further proof, grab the fastest mother Fer at your AutoX and have them set a hot lap time in your car. Be amazed at how long it takes to get that close. When you can drive repeated AutoX sessions and your consistently within .1 sec each lap your definitely ready for playing with car setup. If you can't be consistent then you have no idea if your modification helped you or damaged you.
But if you MUST blow some cash; tires then brake pads. For tires Star Spec, RE-11a....yada yada. Make sure they dont bump you into a crazy class. The reason classing is important as it's fun running with guys who are competition with you and you are competition with them. Boring to get your @$$ handed to you by cars seconds faster than you and you will never get close to. Sounds like you have a awesome setup if you were classed with 4 S2k's.
But if you MUST blow some cash; tires then brake pads. For tires Star Spec, RE-11a....yada yada. Make sure they dont bump you into a crazy class. The reason classing is important as it's fun running with guys who are competition with you and you are competition with them. Boring to get your @$$ handed to you by cars seconds faster than you and you will never get close to. Sounds like you have a awesome setup if you were classed with 4 S2k's.







