I was at my wits end and was close to going back to stock because I also had this with a link wideband.

I found another thread that showed similar issues on a Hondata and he fixed his issue by cleaning his throttle body and TPS sensor. I gave it a shot and so far have had no problems at all with hesitation around 2k rpms.

 

appreciate the reply. I’ll give that a try and see if it works. How do you clean the sensor??

 

Thanks for replying guys. I still havent had time to swap stock ecu back in to test. Im currently swapping out clutches and my time is limited.

I clean my throttle body every chance i get, which is pretty frequent. I have also swapped throttle bodies with the TPS (known good one) and still had the issue.

 

Ended up noticing a bundle of wires were starting to rub through their sheathing and coating on the back edge of the fuel rail on my car (factory wiring and rail). Re-wrapped those and, while I can't say for 100% certainty it's fixed, I have re-created the conditions multiple times since and it hasn't done it again as of yet.

May be something for you guys to check, IIRC they were related to the injectors.

 

Thats a good point. The ignition wire right there is sometimes used for RPM pickup when getting tuned on the dyno ( i know mine was)

 

So it’s been a couple months, anyone figure out exactly what this issue could be? I haven’t tried cleaning anything yet but I feel like it can’t be something that obvious as I never experienced this with stock ECU. I will still try and clean out the throttle body but just wondering if anyone has figured out a solution.

has anyone tried relocating the IAt sensor from the intake manifold to the intake pipe? Some people I have been talking with seem to think that’s the issue. My IAT’s will sky rocket to over 160 sitting in traffic and coincidentally, that exactly when all my issues start. When the car is cold I don’t have these problems at all. Figured if the sensor is located where there is a more consistent flow of cold air, the car won’t see such high intake temps which possibly throw off the fuel mapping when the car is extremely hot.

ive tried to figure out how to easily relocate the sensor but that’s also a pain in the ass. ASM sells a kit with a silicone pipe that has an IAT hole, block off plates for the original IAT location, and extended wiring but it’s $400 and you have to import it from Japan, don’t know if I wanna go that route if this is not the solution.

 

I bought the balade intake arm and it had provisions for both the ap1 air pump and the ap2 iat. I used a spare Honda iat and cut it apart to create a plug and play extension harness. I am running a Rife fast response iat that I calibrated into the AEM ECU. It definitely doesn't register the heat soak as drastically the stock sensor location does. Once fully warmed up and moving it sits about 20*F above ambient outside air temp.


I also made a "cap" out of a spare OEM iat plug. Completely unnecessary, but I didn't like it looking like I left a sensor unplugged.

 

appreciate the response! What you have done seems far beyond my capabilities though. You said you’re on AEM. Were you having hesitation issues at low speed while the car is hot that made you relocate or the sensor?

 

No, the AEM is super smooth hot or cold. I did have that hot low speed hesitation with the OEM ECU though.

I was mostly just curious try a fast response sensor and didn't want to drill and tap the manifold to fit it.

 

I still have not had time to swap back to oem ecu to see if mine does it on both ecu's. I plan on doing so and taking logs to send to my tuner.

I will say, my IAT sensor is relocated in the intake arm and im still getting the low rpm bucking.