Start up first time w/ ID1000s (AEMPro)
So I just installed my ID1000s after taking a couple days of researching on what needs to be changed on the tune and getting it all set up before the install so I could hopefully start it up and have a decent base map to go do the fine tuning on.
Anyways, I installed the injectors correctly, no fuel leaks, seated properly, I put the OEM cushions under the ones supplied with the injectors, oiled the o-rings etc. etc. Everything looks superb, so I'm fairly confident that everything mechanical is good.
I go to start up the car and it fires up just like stock injectors, but once (I'm guessing) the map transfers over from the crank tables to the idle tables, the car just dies immediately, it doesn't idle at all.
I took my original perfectly working calibration, in the fuel map I chose the "change injectors/pressure" option and went through that process
old injectors = 360cc @ 34psi
new injectors = 1015cc @43.5psi
This changed the fuel map a bit, and killed the resolution, so I copied the pulse width tables, then changed the microbits/sec from 45 to 15 and pasted the PW tables back in, and it gave decent resolution, idle is ~38-52 raw and max fuel is 203 raw, which is similar to what I had for stock injectors. For start up battery offset, I just used the stock injectors option in the software, as I didn't see any Injector Dynamics options in the table.
The next thing I did was adjust the Crank Injector Time table using the equation I found by Wadzii: Crank Time1 * Msec/bit1 / Msec/bit2 = CrankTime2. This changed my Crank time from 53 to 168 I believe.
I didn't change anything in the Idle tables, and I'm assuming thats the reason the car isn't idling
Can anyone with some experience of tuning a car with bigger injectors chime in on this? My car is stuck in the driveway till I get this figured out
I'm not sure how to upload a calibration file on here. I can email it to whoever needs to see it asap though.
Thanks guys
Anyways, I installed the injectors correctly, no fuel leaks, seated properly, I put the OEM cushions under the ones supplied with the injectors, oiled the o-rings etc. etc. Everything looks superb, so I'm fairly confident that everything mechanical is good.
I go to start up the car and it fires up just like stock injectors, but once (I'm guessing) the map transfers over from the crank tables to the idle tables, the car just dies immediately, it doesn't idle at all.
I took my original perfectly working calibration, in the fuel map I chose the "change injectors/pressure" option and went through that process
old injectors = 360cc @ 34psi
new injectors = 1015cc @43.5psi
This changed the fuel map a bit, and killed the resolution, so I copied the pulse width tables, then changed the microbits/sec from 45 to 15 and pasted the PW tables back in, and it gave decent resolution, idle is ~38-52 raw and max fuel is 203 raw, which is similar to what I had for stock injectors. For start up battery offset, I just used the stock injectors option in the software, as I didn't see any Injector Dynamics options in the table.
The next thing I did was adjust the Crank Injector Time table using the equation I found by Wadzii: Crank Time1 * Msec/bit1 / Msec/bit2 = CrankTime2. This changed my Crank time from 53 to 168 I believe.
I didn't change anything in the Idle tables, and I'm assuming thats the reason the car isn't idling
Can anyone with some experience of tuning a car with bigger injectors chime in on this? My car is stuck in the driveway till I get this figured out
I'm not sure how to upload a calibration file on here. I can email it to whoever needs to see it asap though.
Thanks guys
So I thought I found out what was wrong with the tune. In the OP, I state that for the Injector Battery Offset setup table, I selected the settings for the stock s2k injectors. Well this table is obviously wrong for the ID1000s, so I looked up the deadtimes for the ID1000s on their website and put in those values for the even number voltages. I used the table on this link here and put the values in for the 43.5 psi (2600,1675,1240..etc.) Is this the right psi setting on a stock fuel pump?
After I did this, I was confident my car would run fine, I tried cranking it up, but the battery wouldn't crank the engine, it was dead. After some cursing, I pulled up my brothers car, hooked it up to my battery and jump started my car, first time it still didnt start, but second time it cranked up, but then died immediately again like it had done earlier today, changing the battery offset appeared to do nothing. After waiting a couple minutes, I tried to crank it again, but to my surprise the battery wouldn't crank the car again, the more I tried (after waiting a couple minutes between each time) the weaker the battery seemed, and it was still hooked up to my brother's running car.
So what I'm left at right now is not sure why my car isn't running still after I changed the dead time vs battery voltage tables + a new added problem of those tables killing my battery and possibly needing a new one. The one I have now was on it's way out but I figured it still had at least a couple months or so left in it.
After I did this, I was confident my car would run fine, I tried cranking it up, but the battery wouldn't crank the engine, it was dead. After some cursing, I pulled up my brothers car, hooked it up to my battery and jump started my car, first time it still didnt start, but second time it cranked up, but then died immediately again like it had done earlier today, changing the battery offset appeared to do nothing. After waiting a couple minutes, I tried to crank it again, but to my surprise the battery wouldn't crank the car again, the more I tried (after waiting a couple minutes between each time) the weaker the battery seemed, and it was still hooked up to my brother's running car.
So what I'm left at right now is not sure why my car isn't running still after I changed the dead time vs battery voltage tables + a new added problem of those tables killing my battery and possibly needing a new one. The one I have now was on it's way out but I figured it still had at least a couple months or so left in it.
Thanks to Brian I got the car running fine, for whatever reason the rescaling had the fuel tables a lot leaner than they should have been, I played with the start extra and extra decay tables a bit and added about 10% fuel to the actual fuel map and the trims are looking decent.
Apparently ID1ks are actually ~900cc so that may be why the map was running lean if I scaled for 1015cc injectors
Apparently ID1ks are actually ~900cc so that may be why the map was running lean if I scaled for 1015cc injectors
Thanks to Brian I got the car running fine, for whatever reason the rescaling had the fuel tables a lot leaner than they should have been, I played with the start extra and extra decay tables a bit and added about 10% fuel to the actual fuel map and the trims are looking decent.
Apparently ID1ks are actually ~900cc so that may be why the map was running lean if I scaled for 1015cc injectors
Apparently ID1ks are actually ~900cc so that may be why the map was running lean if I scaled for 1015cc injectors
I believe the reason they say they flow 1015cc at 3bar fuel pressure is because they flow them with gasoline rather than mineral spirits like other injectors are flow rated with.
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