Didn't see a thread on timing/ignition. Lets get this thread going

For starter, here is the brief on tuning ignition from the help file.

http://www.hondata.com/help/flashpro/index...tion_tables.htm

http://www.hondata.com/help/flashpro/index...tion_tables.htm

Both are great information.

From my logs, I have seen ign between 25-27 degree from WOT in 3rd gear at 5k to 8500.

To safely do ign tuning, it needs to be done on the dyno so you can see the power output that is producing. The general census that I gather is you can advance timing up to the point where it starts to lose power. Once that point has been reach, you take away a degree and you are good.

Anyways, let discuss. How much timing can the F22 handle saftely with bolt-on

how much timing are you guys seeing on your car?

 

I would say add timing to the point that the engine quits increacing torque from the previous pull, not to the point that torque is decreacing. Ie. add 2 deg and it picks up 10ft/lbs, add another 2 deg and it picks up 8ft/lbs, add another 2 deg and it only picks up 2ft/lbs. I usually take 2 deg back out from the pull that made the most torque.

I have a completely stock F20 with the SOS aftercooled kit at 8psi, my full throttle timing at peak boost/rpm is 17-18 deg. With 1 count of knock appearing in maybe 1 out of 10 pulls. When I tuned it, the peak Hp/Tq numbers were with 19-20 deg. with zero knock count. Retarding the 2 deg. for "safety" only cost me about 5 hp and will hopefully give just a bit of leeway.

Great idea for a thread I'm in for more!

 

Great thread idea - tuning AFR's is relatively easy - I'm rather naive about timing though.

I'm doing an E-Tune with Evans Tuning and he has my timing at 31deg or higher with an individual retard in the cylinder trims:

1 - 0 retard
2 - 5deg retard
3 - 6deg retard
4 - 2deg retard

 

Here is a thread from a few months ago that has some helpful info.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=761740

It seems that professional tuners really don't want to share much info about ignition tuning, since it takes money out of their pockets.

 

That's an amazing amount of variance between cylinders! I would be really curious to find out what might be causing cylinders 2 and 3 to detonate so much more than cylinder 1. I have about 2.5 degrees max retard on one of my cylinders, and if it went higher than that, I'd start replacing stuff.

BTW, make sure you keep your coils packs and spark plugs straight if you take them out.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=762748

 

BTW, after doing lots of ignition timing on my car over the past few months on the street, I think it's totally safe as long as you take your time. I have been making very small incremental changes with lots of datalogs to look for knock counts, and don't believe I've done any damage at all.

 

Yeah I've got no idea. Its a 26k mile motor thats never been raced. Valves are way out of spec when I bought it (even after a dealership told the PO that they were fine) and they are still noisy as hell. Thats the only thing I can think of that would be triggering the knock sensor and causing the counts. Coil packs are on the correct cylinders.

 

I believe all the coil packs are the same, so you can move them to whatever cylinder you want. However, it's just in your case that you have such extreme differences in cylinder trims that you want to make sure you don't move them around.

 

Thanks for putting these primer and intro threads together. It's helping me make the most of my S and learn about it in the process. I'm an engineer by trade, so this kind of tinkering is right up my alley!

 

when you use the cylinder trim, that advance/retard timing throughout the entire map?

was wondering if this would work. Add ignition for all 4 cylinder by like 1. Go out and make a run. If you don't see any knock then continue to add one. If you do see knock in a particular cylinder then retard that timing in that cylinder.


I know this way is sort of cheating and not the proper way. Let me know your thoughts.