Two questions:

1) why didn't you use an IWG and avoid the dump pipes altogether? The IWG would have saved a lot of plumbing for merging the dump tubes together and into the downpipe. The EFR is close to 3x as expensive as the SX362; was it cost?

2) what welder did you use and where did you source your tubing?

 

1)Price, packaging, replaceability, cheaper to replace specific parts (gate parts), simplicity(no coolant required), would an internal gate bleed enough pressure/exhaust?, could argue that external gates have better control. Also the plumbing is not a problem since all the work is DIY. The space in between the manifold and downpipe is useless anyway.

2)I use an old thermal arc 185. Tubing I usually get through aceraceparts if its a large order. Otherwise I've used vibrant, verocious, summit, columbia river.

 

Thanks. The IWG should work fine...the double EWG gates needed for the twin scroll are probably overkill at that air flow. Although no one seems to do it, the IWG would have the option of using an electric actuator, eliminating the pneumatics. The IWG may have opened up some positioning options that also simplified the downpipe.



Horsepower and torque seem a bit confused here. Two examples that might clarify: what is the acceleration in mph/sec of a 3000 lb car at 60 mph with an engine that produces 500hp and 440 ft-lb torque at their peaks and is geared for max acceleration at 60mph? What is the maximum twist in a 32" long, 3" diameter, 1/8" wall driveshaft if driven by an engine with a peak of 500hp and 440 ft-lb of torque in second gear with a ratio of 1.6:1?

 

Have you had creep issues with a single 44mm gate? I have.

Using 2 38mm gates is overkill?

My downpipe is as simple as a recirculated downpipe gets on a s2000 with a sidewinder.

Feel free to show me the one you built for comparison.

 

.....I might take your comments seriously if you were to actually post on your real world experience instead of regurgitating what you've read online. It takes more then just reading to be an "expert".

 

You are right, I have minimal information on your setup. Really just turbo size and that it is flex fuel and are at a power level that you installed an 8.8" rear. And this isn't your first rodeo, even on this car. This thread starts with a different manifold.

I envy your fabrication skills.

The EFR IWG was designed, according to documentation, to wastegate up to 40% of the flow. The passages on each scroll were designed to meet those criteria. In contrast, EWGs often start at 90° to a merge collector, then do another sharp 90° in the wastegate itself. The wastegate and turbo outlet are then also sensitive to backpressure in the exhaust. You know all that.

Full Race puts dual 38mm or dual 44mm wastegates on their T4 and T6 Supra 2JZ-GTE manifolds. I would have thought the 2.2L S2000 would have less airflow.

Lots of sharp curves might be necessary because of packaging limitations. That doesn't make them preferable. Would you have put the bend in if you didn't have to? Another poster simply routed it unmuffled straight out the hood, a common drag racing setup.

 

Going to go through the motor and check the bearings. I had an issue with oil drain bolt and acceleration uphill. Oil pressure dropped enough and cut vtec off a few times. Took me a bit to troubleshoot the issue. At first it just felt like the car was cutting out / losing power.

Pulled the motor to start transmission mockup. Cleaned up some of the bay and resprayed some areas.













I bought a Full Blown setup to adapt the cd00a to the motor. Their "kit" uses a clutchmasters twin disc setup (725 series) and hydraulic throwout assembly. I believe the driveshaft is outsourced as well. So the rest of the parts are the adapter plate, shifter, and rear mount.

Initially going through it, there are some things I like and some I didn't. I was never provided any documentation with anything, and about half the bolts were too long and unusable.

The motor to transmission adapter plate is a really nice piece. The dowels on both the motor and the transmission slide in perfect. And they pretty much utilize every fastener location when bolting everything together, though I had to source some bolts that were the correct length.

 

Ill be interested in your thoughts of the trans. Everyone I know of that had the cd009, hated it but opinions can vary. At some point id like to go with the t56 magnum. $$$ is a factor though lol

 

I have mentally prepared myself that it will sound like the worst thing ever lol. Hopefully it will balance itself out to be bearable.

 

So here are a few issues so far. Reading through a couple of other cd009 threads (LostMarine's and AP1chief's) I already had a suspicion of the trans not sitting flush on the adapter plate. So thanks to them for documenting that, because the vendor didn't. And sure enough it has the issue of the input shaft bushing being to high. It was pressed down about 1/8" and the trans closed out fine afterwards.




This picture is through the shift fork hole. The motor and trans are sitting 90 degrees to the ground with the trans on top of the block. You can see the input shaft just resting on the bushing that needs pressed down.




And here is the gap that it creates around the mating surface.









The adapter plate set into the dowels of the block. Really clean fit all the way around.












Some of the supplied bolts that have issues. This is the only area where I did get documentation. It basically said which bolts go where, and if they needed a washer or not. But like I said before, most of the bolts won't work. Most of the bolts can not be higher than the surface because it will hit the mating surface of the transmission.










Some more test fitting







Looking through the starter hole with the transmission connected. I will have to shave the area out for the starter to fit. It is an inner piece of the trans, and not much had to be ground off depth wise. This is really the only necessary area that needed cut out. I did cut another standoff piece off the transmission, but just to gain some space around the area (downpipe area).







I'll start getting some tunnel pics up next. The main area that needs clearanced is the oem rear transmission mount support thats spot welded to the car.