2005 turbo setup
Stepping up the pressure slowly, I am around 20psi in 3rd and 4th.
2nd gear is traction limited to about 15psi.
I do mostly third gear pulls on the same few roads.



Also picked up a cd5 dash after messing around with gauges etc. for too long.
I haven't hooked it up to the car yet, have been trying to make some decent templates.


Tried to remake an LFA setup. Would be nice if AEM would come up with more gauge options, but everything is pretty much customizable. If you are can use an editing program you can pretty much make anything.


The screen is actually pretty clear. My phone camera doesn't pick it up as it actually looks.
Over the winter I want to add to the dash and make a decent "pod" for it.
2nd gear is traction limited to about 15psi.
I do mostly third gear pulls on the same few roads.
Also picked up a cd5 dash after messing around with gauges etc. for too long.
I haven't hooked it up to the car yet, have been trying to make some decent templates.
Tried to remake an LFA setup. Would be nice if AEM would come up with more gauge options, but everything is pretty much customizable. If you are can use an editing program you can pretty much make anything.
The screen is actually pretty clear. My phone camera doesn't pick it up as it actually looks.
Over the winter I want to add to the dash and make a decent "pod" for it.
Yeah the gaugeart looks decent. Anything to read from the ecu is a plus in my opinion. I've wasted too much money on gauges in the past....only to have support drop or the sending units go out of stock.
I've also replaced the motor mounts with oem ones. The vibration was too much for me for daily driving. The rear diff mounts were also replaced with some 62a mounts (instead of 85a). I may swap them back in if I ever have wheel-hop issues if I ever get down to the track. I swapped the motor mounts about a month ago, and just did the rear diff. Both cut down the NVH significantly....maybe up to 50%. The softer diff mounts made the driveline "clunk" in the rear disappear.
Would like to make a dash piece to look something like this. Something 3d-printed would be nice, otherwise I think it would need clay to make a mold and use fiberglass/carbon etc.
(not my pic, just used it to edit)
Dude! That looks sweet. Like it was meant to be that way. Have you thought about using spray expanding foam that when it dries, you can shave it to the shape you like and then use it as a mold for carbon or fiberglass. A lot of high end custom shops use it to do their shape for molds. I used to use it to make custom sub/speaker enclosures back in the day when I competed in IASCA and USAC.
Weren't you running the Vibra-technics engine mounts like me?
Weren't you running the Vibra-technics engine mounts like me?
Yeah the gaugeart looks decent. Anything to read from the ecu is a plus in my opinion. I've wasted too much money on gauges in the past....only to have support drop or the sending units go out of stock.
I've also replaced the motor mounts with oem ones. The vibration was too much for me for daily driving. The rear diff mounts were also replaced with some 62a mounts (instead of 85a). I may swap them back in if I ever have wheel-hop issues if I ever get down to the track. I swapped the motor mounts about a month ago, and just did the rear diff. Both cut down the NVH significantly....maybe up to 50%. The softer diff mounts made the driveline "clunk" in the rear disappear.
Would like to make a dash piece to look something like this. Something 3d-printed would be nice, otherwise I think it would need clay to make a mold and use fiberglass/carbon etc.

(not my pic, just used it to edit)
I've also replaced the motor mounts with oem ones. The vibration was too much for me for daily driving. The rear diff mounts were also replaced with some 62a mounts (instead of 85a). I may swap them back in if I ever have wheel-hop issues if I ever get down to the track. I swapped the motor mounts about a month ago, and just did the rear diff. Both cut down the NVH significantly....maybe up to 50%. The softer diff mounts made the driveline "clunk" in the rear disappear.
Would like to make a dash piece to look something like this. Something 3d-printed would be nice, otherwise I think it would need clay to make a mold and use fiberglass/carbon etc.
(not my pic, just used it to edit)
I am currently in the middle of designing a dash replacement solution for our car using a AiM 7" MXG dash. It's a pretty simple solution that im trying to make look as OEM as possible. I am removing the arch/shroud that is on the stock bezel where you see the bond line and 3d printing a new arch that will correctly shroud the MXG dash. I have a couple oem bezels so I may do a carbon version as well for the hell of it.
Someone just bought my stock dash so I pretty much HAVE to make this happen. lol

Dude! That looks sweet. Like it was meant to be that way. Have you thought about using spray expanding foam that when it dries, you can shave it to the shape you like and then use it as a mold for carbon or fiberglass. A lot of high end custom shops use it to do their shape for molds. I used to use it to make custom sub/speaker enclosures back in the day when I competed in IASCA and USAC.
Weren't you running the Vibra-technics engine mounts like me?
Weren't you running the Vibra-technics engine mounts like me?
Yeah I was using the vibra-technics. Was having issues with noise at idle mostly. One of them I knew about (sidewinder 2500rpm vibration), and the other I could never find. I pretty much daily drive the car unless there is a chance of hail, or when they spray salt on the roads.
Yeah I'll have to try either the clay or the foam. Would be nice to source a spare dash so I can work on it outside of the car.
I am currently in the middle of designing a dash replacement solution for our car using a AiM 7" MXG dash. It's a pretty simple solution that im trying to make look as OEM as possible. I am removing the arch/shroud that is on the stock bezel where you see the bond line and 3d printing a new arch that will correctly shroud the MXG dash. I have a couple oem bezels so I may do a carbon version as well for the hell of it.
Someone just bought my stock dash so I pretty much HAVE to make this happen. lol

Someone just bought my stock dash so I pretty much HAVE to make this happen. lol

I am interested in seeing how your bezel turns out.
Interesting on the Vibra-Technics mounts. I haven't heard any negatives with them before. I also have a front mount (full race) and hope I don't have the same issues. Were you running the street versions or the race? I have the street.
They are street versions. Really it wasn't that bad, it just triggered a couple of specific rattles that just got on my nerves (eventually). I left them on for about 2000 miles to see if they would settle out.
I already have to deal with cd009 noises so anything else drove me over the edge lol.
Been driving the car more now that it is getting warmer out.
Haven't really done too many pulls from first gear. After getting the car into second gear and under power I had a cyclical vibration and noise. It drove normal anytime except under heavy load.
I got home to check things out. Found a ripped axle boot, and noticed the driver side of the rear end dropped down about a half inch. The allen bolts of the axles were rubbing on the subframe under load.
The 8.8 cradle I bought ended up bending. I should have reinforced the driver side "ear" as there is nothing to help support it.
Hopefully I can straighten it and get it close enough before adding support. It is only .25" steel.


Ordered a new boot kit to replace the torn boot. There is a lot of rubber shavings in the cv joint now, so I'll have to clean and repack it.



One circlip and the whole cv assembly is removed and will stay in place.

Haven't really done too many pulls from first gear. After getting the car into second gear and under power I had a cyclical vibration and noise. It drove normal anytime except under heavy load.
I got home to check things out. Found a ripped axle boot, and noticed the driver side of the rear end dropped down about a half inch. The allen bolts of the axles were rubbing on the subframe under load.
The 8.8 cradle I bought ended up bending. I should have reinforced the driver side "ear" as there is nothing to help support it.
Hopefully I can straighten it and get it close enough before adding support. It is only .25" steel.
Ordered a new boot kit to replace the torn boot. There is a lot of rubber shavings in the cv joint now, so I'll have to clean and repack it.
One circlip and the whole cv assembly is removed and will stay in place.









