S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

3mm hg install

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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #11  
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InlinePRO & Jeff Evans told me not to use it
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 05:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Sep 29 2010, 05:37 PM
DO NOT put hondabond here its useless. It works on an OEM gasket since the gasket is thinner than a bead of hondabond. Since the gasket is 3mm it will never compress the honda bond. IP told me to put hondabond on both sides of the HG where the HG goes around the timing chain cover. No leaks here!
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 08:36 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by o'malley_808,Sep 29 2010, 05:12 PM
DO NOT put hondabond here its useless. It works on an OEM gasket since the gasket is thinner than a bead of hondabond. Since the gasket is 3mm it will never compress the honda bond. IP told me to put hondabond on both sides of the HG where the HG goes around the timing chain cover. No leaks here!
This is good to know..

I didn't put any and I'm having seepage problems at the corner of the head/block gasket above the TCT.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 02:14 AM
  #14  
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Why do you even need to go for a thicker head gasket/spacer? Surely if the tuning is good, the slightly higher compression nature of the motor should not be an issue. What sort of power are you guys running for this spacer to be nesessary?

Would it be worth going for lower compression pistons while my engine is out if this is the case. Im shooting for 450-500whp
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 05:38 AM
  #15  
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Its mainly for guys using the cast manifolds for more power and those wanting more power on pump gas. Some use it because they dont like boost + high CR.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #16  
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Personally I prefer to use the copper spray but on this last round with a fresh IP gasket I did not. I ran the 3MM HG for about 3-4K at 20-22PSI on pump gas and the gasket looked great. The only reason I pulled the head was to put the factory gasket in as I am selling the car. I believe the key to the process is the tune but I still go through all the motions step by step.


Tips

Remove the coolant drain plug from the side of the block to lower the coolant level which can be an issue with keeping the surface clean
Remove the brace on the back of the manifold to block and get rid of it

Inspect the cams and towers for galling, and look for cracks in the towers
Using brake cleaner, clean out the oil side of the head
Using carb cleaner clean out the head and combustion chambers
Pour water in the exhaust and intake valves and check for valve seat leaks
Tap and plug the AIR Injection Ports

Using a turkey baster suck the oil out of the head bolt holes in the block.
Clean the surface of the block and head using gasket remover
Clean again with Carb Cleaner
Using 400 Grit paper and a large sanding block remove any high spots or problem areas using lots of water and VERY light pressure
Clean the Surface of the block and head again using Windex

On a side note your dishwasher makes a great part washer. I just did my intake this weekend and it looks like new. All I do is remove the heavy deposits with carb or brake cleaner then pop it in the wash.

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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #17  
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Please do yourself a favor. Don't install a thicker head gasket. Spend the money on good engine management, a good tuner and dyno time.
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #18  
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Well in the end thats exactly what I did, went back to a stock head gasket, I'm very happy I did, 480/360@13 psi
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