Hi everyone, new to this forum, not new to the honda world and FI. I've built several motors, last build a bullet proof reliable 500hp+ daily driver and 1000hp honda track motor (B-series).

Not very familiar with the F series, still doing my due diligence gathering data, looking at buying an AP2 for the torque and displacement.

From what I have seen most guys run a basic turbo setup up, up to 500hp or less, run stock bottom end with some to no head work at all. I'm not looking to slap on a turbo and call it a day. I'm going to spend the money to build a reliable daily driver which can be driven in 110F temps on the freeway without overheating like my current daily driver. Complete build from the ground up, motor, trans, suspension, etc to handle the power reliably.

My question is for 700-950HP, can the stock F22C bottom end and factory 87mm sleeves handle that power reliably? The B-motors cannot handle anything over 7psi on stock sleeves and factory head, not sure about F platform. I'm going to guess the answer is no, but maybe you can convince me otherwise. Plan is GE sleeves +2 or +3mm overbore depending on wall thickness, o-ring'd and align bore if necessary. Estimate cost of build between 20-35K like my daily. Key is reliability.

Thanks

 

700+ is a lot of HP for this motor. I believe a previous owner achieved that on a PFAB turbo kit on stock block. I personally am making 515whp on stock block unopened stock hg with supertech dual valve springs and retainers in the head. Been running 2-3years daily driving with no issues...well I have issues but unrelated to the motor. If you got $20-35K to spend there's no reason you couldn't get a fully built 4piston f22c that can hold 1200whp.

 

Thanks for the feedback, sounds like having the factory sleeves will not hold up.

Curious what problems have you had, anything related to the turbo.

 

I held the stock block record for a long time at 741 whp dynojet confirmed and over 800 whp not dynoe'd. I was on 29.6 psi at 11:1 CR making 741 whp and then turned it up to 34 psi. Never once had a problem with the block, the head had the Supertech setup. Many on here have pushed the stock block to 700+ whp with no issues and the block is fully forged from the factory.

 

That is an interesting perspective, thanks for your feedback. I have not heard anything good when pushing 500hp on the F motor from the builders I've talked to.

Is your car a daily driver? Reason I ask is you can make successful pulls on the dyno and the block might last, but as a daily it wears down fairly quick with a blown HG to follow. Curious to hear more about your setup and driving habits and conditions you drive in.

 

A mobile browser doesn't show signatures, hopped on a pc and I can see your signature with build details. It states "InlinePro built bottom end"? Curious what bottom end work you got done or just a hone for pistons?

If you ever decide to sell your car pm me. Was planning a very similar build with full race kit. Not a huge fan of oem vs hondata but I'm open if it makes more sense for this platform.

 

I to was well into 700-800hp on stock block, just head studs, and ARP rod bolts, and what actaully let go was the main rod bearings. Now looking back if i knew now how TIGHT factory bearings are, i would have thrown some Race bearings .003" on the mains and .002" on the rods, and the stock motor would have survived MUCH longer.

Stock bearing clearances are not meant for 5-6-700 HP, they are super tight, and with that much power your starting to flex the crank, and eventually you'll spin bearings.

 

It's funny you mention this most people running up to 500hp never seems to have this issue. You sure the crank was true to begin with? Crower makes a crank not sure about F series but for 1000hp the oem honda cranks are not ideal for this reason. Running it slightly on the looser side is really not required until you start pushing it really hard. Oil viscosity makes a big difference as well.

Curious what your ring gaps are set to. The CP guide is on the conservative end can run tighter for street/track to avoid burning too much oil.

 

Mine is now built because it is going to be near 1100 whp when complete.

When I was at 800+ whp, it was on the stock unopened bottom end with the stock head gasket and ARP studs. It was in this form for over 2 years racing regularly on the weekends and racked up a good 4000 miles doing so. I bought the car new in 03 and was one of the first to ever boost the S2k and did so with the first turbo kit at 3000 miles. It went through a lot of abuse going from 300 whp for 1 year, 450 whp for 2 years, 600 whp for 4 years and all the way to 800+ whp for 2 years without a hiccup on the stock block for a total of 13k boosted miles before I decided to fully build everything and go for extreme power.

And yes, my S only has 16k miles on it now.

 

Thanks for that feedback, I drive up to 4k monthly bc of my commute, still good data about the stock bottom end.

If you decide to sell her on me. Still contemplating if I want to go through another major build or just buy a GTR and call it a day.