adjusting the wastegate Greddy
i read somewhere that to adjust the wastegate you had to loosen this bolt (10mm) all the way off then 3.5 turns to get to about 8psi's? i just wanted to be 100% sure that all you had to do cuz i got the mani/turbo off i just can squeez it out of the car cuz sooo much crap is still in the way.
any ways is this the bolt you have to remove all the way loose then tighten it with 3.5 turns?

thanks
-Josh
any ways is this the bolt you have to remove all the way loose then tighten it with 3.5 turns?

thanks
-Josh
terminology to make my explanation understandable (note these may or may not be the 'correct' names lol):
actuator & actuator arm = gold 'wastegate'
flapper & flapper arm = flapper door and arm that is on the exhaust housing and connected to the end of the actuator.
you don't loosen it all the way off, you have to loosen it until there is no tension on the actuator arm. this will essentially be the 'zero' point.
you'll notice that if you were to remove the actuator arm from the flapper arm, there will be some tension--it does not slide off smoothly. this is not at zero.
slide the actuator arm off of the flapper arm and turn the end until it slides on and off without any force. this is the zero point and from here, you tighten it back up 3.5 turns (so there is tension again).
Note: it is best to do this with the actuator unbolted from the compressor housing as forcing the actuator arm on and off the flapper arm while it is still bolted down on the compressor side might cause you to get an incorrect 'zero' point.
btw i made up the term 'zero point' for lack of a better word.
actuator & actuator arm = gold 'wastegate'
flapper & flapper arm = flapper door and arm that is on the exhaust housing and connected to the end of the actuator.
you don't loosen it all the way off, you have to loosen it until there is no tension on the actuator arm. this will essentially be the 'zero' point.
you'll notice that if you were to remove the actuator arm from the flapper arm, there will be some tension--it does not slide off smoothly. this is not at zero.
slide the actuator arm off of the flapper arm and turn the end until it slides on and off without any force. this is the zero point and from here, you tighten it back up 3.5 turns (so there is tension again).
Note: it is best to do this with the actuator unbolted from the compressor housing as forcing the actuator arm on and off the flapper arm while it is still bolted down on the compressor side might cause you to get an incorrect 'zero' point.
btw i made up the term 'zero point' for lack of a better word.
while you're at it, check to see if your flapper valve fully opens and closes smoothly. looks like you have an old kit w/o the orange heat wrap on the actuator. some old kits had problems w/ the flapper valve not opening all the way.
see below for the update housing:
see below for the update housing:
and iono if it's just me and i haven't seen the actuator in a long time, but the top half of your actuator looks crooked! i dunno what the problem is that you're having, but that might be it...
edit: oh i just saw your other thread about this. yeah looks like a problem!!
edit: oh i just saw your other thread about this. yeah looks like a problem!!
if you don't have the updated housing, it's possible the flapper might seize. i'm not sure what causes the seizing though or what the update to the housing is. i think heat might have been the cause, but not sure.
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zero_energy
California - Southern California S2000 Owners
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Oct 27, 2009 01:20 AM







