If ECU monitors knock sensor. Will knock #1, and knock #1 volts show it????
If yes what

 

for the engine light, the car did over heat. i think its the thermostat?
i heard you should you bleed the system?

is this true after installing the AEM

 

as far as your first question yes knock #1 volts is what you want to watch. basically the knock sensor is a microphone and the higher the voltage the more sound it's picking up. what most guys suggest you do is log the voltage of a really conservative tune and then you'll know what the voltage will look like when there's no knock. on my buddy's S if I remember right the voltage went from under 0.25V at idle up to about 2.5V at 8500rpm WOT. when you look at the log it should steadily climb higher without spikes, if you're getting spikes in the same place then it's probably knocking at that rpm & load.

 

thanks
i was thinking around max 3 volts!!

 

yeah with the extra load of boost you might hit 3V and have it not be a problem. my buddy's S is an AP2 so it's not revving as high as the AP1, that would probably make a difference too.

 

Don't use cheap gas.

You can tune it to add timing when the knock sensor senses knock.

 

I am sure you just typo'd, but meant the EMS will retard timing when sensing knock.

-asura

 

another question........

whats the different between knock volts, and knock RAW?

 

Thats what I meant "pull timing"

 

there's a raw number, usually voltage, but that's not always what you're looking for. like the map sensor's raw number would be 0 to 5 volts, but we want to see PSI in most cases since that's the most familiar. so the MAP raw number could be 4 volts but the software shows us 8psi (just making up numbers). since the knock sensor measures voltage and we're looking for voltage, the raw is the same and just reading knock voltage. on most sensors, TPS, MAP, O2, etc, there's a raw voltage but we want to have it shown as something else and the software does that for us but give us the option to view the raw number.

back to the knock sensor I just looked at AEM's base map and at 8000rpm it won't do anything until 4 volts and it won't do anything at 9000rpm until about 4.5 volts. of course you can adjust that to whatever you want but usually they're fairly conservative in their basemaps. on my buddy's supercharged S on the dyno the highest we ever saw was 3.5 volts and the was no audible knock or dip/spike in the dyno so we weren't near a danger point yet.