I think it's time to up the boost...

I have a MY05 with a base SOS kit (i.e., 1220 oil-fed), which comes with a pre-tuned piggyback (i.e., FVM), RRFPR, and Walbro 255, and I'm looking to up the boost from 6 psi to somewhere between 10 and 12 psi. With that said, I'm subjected to emissions testing every other year.

From what I understand, if I go with AEM, I would simply need to put in my stock injectors, stock ECU and I'm not sure what else (what do I do w/ the RRFPR when I go standalone? Back to stock FPR?). Nonetheless, I was under the impression that it's not too bad of an inconvenience for the extra power Maybe 60 to 90 minutes worth of work? Please feel free to shed some light on this however.

Ultimately, would anyone in my shoes pick the KPro over the AEM? If so, I'd like to know why. I'm still trying to fully understand the two solutions.

Thanks!

 

I was in your shoes. I chose Kpro so I wouldn't have to deal with the headache of swapping back and forth each year. I was told I would have to go comepletely back to stock If I wanted to pass emissions without KPRO. My emissions is the OBDII scan. Put it this way. Your car is 100% and you have to take stuff apart and put it back together. God forbid your forget to tighten something down all the way...problems occur. Not saying you will but with my experience anything can happen.


Do it right the first time so you don't have to go back and do it again. (Save the money and save a headache or 2)

 

In Oregon Kpro will no longer pass emissions testing, not sure if it is that way with other states.

 

Why not in Oregon

 

I do the AEM EMS/ swap in stock ecu, injectors, o2 sensor & map sensor method.. yeah about 1.5 hours of work.. been driving around without inspection for 3 months now though cause im lazy lol

AEM is better than Kpro anyway , and a lot cheaper/ easier to install

 

I'm not 100% sure but the RSX ecu like throw something out of whack when you plug it into the OBII. Friend of my got Kpro for emission a few years back and they changed something on the testing and when he tried to renew this year the car wouldn't pass. He just got SP plates because he doesn't really drive the car too much anyway.

 

Well if it threw something out of whack, it shouldn't work in any state.

 

I go back and forth on this... Currently leaning Kpro for my future setup.

 

Not sure if you're referring to me, but yes, in Oregon I was advised that Oregon DEQ's recent equipment updates will flag certain Hondata responses, which can cause your car to fail.

Getting SP plates for my car, which for the past 5 years towed* its own trailer for tires to/from track at 24 MPG/70 MPH/105F heat, was more ecologically friendly than buying a truck & trailer to tow at 15 MPG (plus where would I park the truck/trailer). Car was daily driven in TX for 5 yrs, but given the DEQ issues I'd have to limit use to autocross/DE only, maybe the occasional cars & coffee.

*Past tense explanation, and unloading something I've kept quiet since January. I brought my S2000 to Portland Speed Industries the first week of January 2012, returning a favor to them (they'd talked me out of buying Hondata ECU & recommended SP plates since I'd limit my use of the car to to/from racing events). Favor was to let them change the RC1000 injectors/resistor box over to ID1000s, in theory to give better atomization & emissions esp. at low throttle position (cruise, idle, etc.) I could have changed the injectors myself & tuned it myself (I did the prior RC1000s and tune which lasted 5 yrs in TX heat, autocross, DEs and towing tires at 75MPH in 105F heat with AC on full blast...), but I wanted to do something nice for them by giving them some business before starting this year's racing season. Long/short, they installed the ID1000s but went too aggressive while trying to exceed my amateur tune and blew the motor (scuffed pistons/sleeves). Their failure analysis suggested fault was with prior 5 years driving on amateur tune. Rebuild took until April to get it assembled, upon which they blew the motor a second time within 28 pulls. They then asked me to fund another rebuild at which time I invoked their warranty (car had never been in my possession, much of the issue was the inconclusive failure analysis they charged me $500 for after they blew the first motor) to avoid paying for another rebuild which wasn't my fault in the first place. When they provided data logs of their January tuning, their knock signature was higher than my old tune, across the rev range. (They've refused to provide datalogs from their April tuning/failure.) So this April-July rebuild has been glacially slow - engine allegedly arrived from machine shop Fri 7/6 and PSI now says some new customers work pre-empts their efforts on getting my car done.

 

Hmm... and I was leaning heavily towards PSI doing the tuning as well.