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AEM temp calibration ( coolant temp fix )

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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 09:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by AndyFloyd,Apr 30 2009, 05:25 AM
... How many bars do you see now that you got all the air out of your coolant system?
seldom in 3 bars, mostly 4 bars.

3-4 bars cruising 80-85 fwy
4 bars in the street
4-5 (for a min or two) after slowing down from a hot run

never 6 bars.

I'm thinking of running DEI radiator relief. Maybe it can keep it in a tighter range. we'll see...
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sarek,Apr 30 2009, 09:56 AM
seldom in 3 bars, mostly 4 bars.

3-4 bars cruising 80-85 fwy
4 bars in the street
4-5 (for a min or two) after slowing down from a hot run

never 6 bars.

I'm thinking of running DEI radiator relief. Maybe it can keep it in a tighter range. we'll see...
thanks for the info sarek. I use redline water wetter in mine. I usually see 3 bars on the highway, 4 in stop and go traffic. I guess my temps arent as bad as i thought. I read where some people said they were getting like 180-195 and never going above that....dunno how they do it. Maybe with a aluminum radiator and some baffling to funnel air into the radiator?

Im gonna drain all my coolant, change the thermostat and use just distilled water and water wetter. Just simply running water and water wetter will lower temps about 10-15* might wanna try that.
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:42 PM
  #23  
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Sounds like a good idea. I just hate purging the s2k coolant system!
It seems I'm running warmer than some, maybe because of the 19.5 lbs of boost?

I have the Aluminum radiator. Gotta try some of the water wetter/rad relief.

Speaking radiators. Does our coolant pressure increase with rpms? I think I'm having a small leak where the top hose and radiator meet. I'm seeing a little "splash" of dried coolant. Nothing is dripping in the garage so it's happening when I'm driving. My coolant level in the resevior is not noticeably decreasing....

I'll wipe it down and see where it's really leaking. Maybe I need to replace my hose and clamps...
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Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Sarek,Apr 30 2009, 05:42 PM
Sounds like a good idea. I just hate purging the s2k coolant system!
It seems I'm running warmer than some, maybe because of the 19.5 lbs of boost?

I have the Aluminum radiator. Gotta try some of the water wetter/rad relief.

Speaking radiators. Does our coolant pressure increase with rpms? I think I'm having a small leak where the top hose and radiator meet. I'm seeing a little "splash" of dried coolant. Nothing is dripping in the garage so it's happening when I'm driving. My coolant level in the resevior is not noticeably decreasing....

I'll wipe it down and see where it's really leaking. Maybe I need to replace my hose and clamps...
here is a tip i read while i was searching one day....here is how to remove all air from the system...

I guess you could fill the system a little....crack the bleeder screw on the intake manifold. Attach a rubber hose to a bucket filled with coolant, or water+water wetter ( whatever ya got). Once the thermostat opens it will pull coolant into the system until it cant anymore. I havent tried it yet, but man it sounds like it should work.

I think the only thing that makes pressure go up is heat...so if rpms increase coolant heat then yes.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 05:43 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by AndyFloyd,Apr 30 2009, 08:52 PM
here is a tip i read while i was searching one day....here is how to remove all air from the system...

I guess you could fill the system a little....crack the bleeder screw on the intake manifold. Attach a rubber hose to a bucket filled with coolant, or water+water wetter ( whatever ya got). Once the thermostat opens it will pull coolant into the system until it cant anymore. I havent tried it yet, but man it sounds like it should work.

I think the only thing that makes pressure go up is heat...so if rpms increase coolant heat then yes.
when you are trying to remove all the air from the system and do it the way you stated the car has already been started and warmed up correct?
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 07:20 AM
  #26  
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i have a 2003 engine and tranny on a stand wired up and running ....got the stock rad and fans hooked up and workin....i have no temp gauge hooked up to it so when i had to test the cooling fan to see if it came on or not i used a lazer temp gun to check temps ....the fan switch on the radiator is a 199 degree switch....it will turn on fan just above that temp......so i pointed the lazer gun just above that switch on the radiator and the fan came on when the gun was reading 202 degrees....and fan shut off when gun was reading 187 degrees....what is the problem?....u guys overheating?.....Standard Thermostat
Lift height: above 10.0 mm (0.39 in.)
Starts opening: 169-176°F (76-80°C)
Fully open: 194°F (90°C) all temps are accurate according to my lazer temp gun
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 07:28 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by LostMotion
Originally Posted by AndyFloyd,Apr 30 2009, 08:36 AM
Interesting, I have read that the stock thermostat opens fully around 200*. I ordered a new thermostat from a place online. Its an OEM style that opens at 172*F. It has 76*C engraved on the top of it. Im not sure if its just gonna crack open @ 172 and fully open at like 192* or open quickly @ 172 and regulate temps a little lower. What temp range is the stock thermostat? Anyone ever tested one in some boiling water to see where and when they open? Keep the info coming.
My guess is that it fully opens at 172 and starts at ~154 just like all the others. This is too cold IMO for anything but a full race car.
Standard Thermostat
Lift height: above 10.0 mm (0.39 in.)
Starts opening: 169-176°F (76-80°C)
Fully open: 194°F (90°C)
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