S20004ME PDX, I am running a Comptech S/C & A/C with CT AP2 crank pulley on my '02 AP1. When the Comptech kit was installed the OEM fuel pump was replaced with the Comptech Kit pump. I am getting 295 rwhp @ 6.8 psi at 8,800 rpm. I am still running the entire stock exhaust system. I have had the car dyno tested twice, once with the CT AP1 crank pulley (4.8 psi) and again with a CT AP2 crank pulley (6.8 psi). Both times my tuner had to adjust the CT fuel pressure because the engine was running too lean. He was taking the air/fuel mixture reading from the passenger side exhaust tip. After the first dyno testing, I installed digital gauges: wideband air/fuel, fuel pressure, & vacuum-boost. The wideband sensor for the gauge is located in the exhaust headpipe just opposite from the OEM wideband sensor. During the second dyno test (AP2 pulley), we noticed that my air/fuel gauge was reading about 0.5 richer than the dyno's tail pipe sensor. So, your dyno chart air/fuel mixture readings could actually be around 0.5 high (lean).
If you are using the high pressure fuel pump that came in the Comptech S/C kit and are using 93 octane gas, I would not worry too much about your air/fuel mixture if your rwhp is 295 or higher.

jmoore2k
NW Arkansas

 

PM'ed

 

as safe as these CTSC's have proven to be, i still strongly suggest you run a wideband before boosting any motor that is supposed to be N/A. like was previously stated, the probe on the dyno will not be as accurate as a sensor mounted earlier in the exhaust system.

good luck!

 

Thanks for all the feedback.

I am still running the Berk HFC, and no we did not try to read the AFR from the other exhaust, all the reading was taken from the driver side.

I can't remember if my original CTSC kit came with Fuel pump or not. I have to dig up the all install list to find out, unless someone remembers. The kit was bought back in 02-03 when AfterCooler was not available.

jmoore2k,

I think I will invest in some aftermarket gauges as well. AFR/EGT/Boost. I never got them before was because I wanted to keep my interior looking stock. But it seems like I will be needing them to make sure my car is running healthy, which is way more important than looks.

 

if you are not sure about your fuel pump, i would strongly suggest that you go ahead and replace it anyways. for 100 bucks its worth the peace of mind!

 

S20004ME PDX, When I decided to add gauges to monitor vacuum/boost, fuel pressure, and air/fuel mixture parameters on my S, I looked at what was available on the market. I decided that I did not want gauges on the "A" pillar because of the loss of some field-of-view. Placing three gauges on the radio cover was too expensive ($1,100) and required dropping vision too far down and away from road view to be safe when driving.
I settled on the "DynoTune" Square Digital Gauges (www.dynotunenitrous.com) to solve the need. For vacuum/boost values, I selected DynoTune's Boost Pressure Gauge w/Transducer ($159.00) because: it is only 2.12" Wide x 1.37" Tall x 0.6" Deep, has a large digital display to 0.1 PSI resolution, and its Red or optional Green Backlight LCD is direct sunlight viewable. With the purchase of an additional Fuel Pressure transducer and a two-way rocker switch (Radio Shack), I am able to use the Vacuum/Boost Digital Gauge to also display Fuel Pressure by the flip of the red rocker switch (installed on lower left dash below radio remote VOL +/- filp switch. For air/fuel mixture values, I selected DynoTune's Wideband A/F Gauge and LC-1 controller (installed in new bung welded on exhaust headpipe just opposite OEM wideband sensor) that feeds into the gauge to display actual air/fuel ratio readings. This gauge and controller combo is pre-configured to work right out of the box.
I had the two gauges installed (using velcro pads ) side-by-side on the dash top between the driver's "A" pillar and the hump for the tach. The gauge nearest the tach hump is setback just enough for its one wire (black) to go behind the adjacent gauge. Both gauges wires slip easily between the "A" pillar cover and the dash so they are hidden. Only the red rocker switch required drilling a hole in the dash. The interior of my S is black and the DynoTune gauge rectangular shaped frames are also the same shade of black. I keep a black knit sportscar cap in my S to cover the two DynoTune gauges when parked in public.
I am very pleased with the looks, functions, and easy readability of the two DynoTune gauge displays. One can read the displays with just a flick of the eye day or night without losing view (out of corners of the eye) of the road ahead.

jmoore2k
NW Arkansas
Black Stealth S2000

 

Did you select any extra gauges yet?

jmoore2k
NW Arkansas

 

Yes I did. Thank you for following up.

I decided on the PLX Organic LED gauges. I went with the 52mm DM100's because I felt that they were plenty big enough already.

http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm100/smafrcombo/

After a few weeks of research, I ended up choosing PLX because I didn't want to run multiple gauges in my car, but I wanted to monitor more than just the AFR. With PLX, it allows me to chain up to 32 sensor units and run them all into the same gauge.

For now, I just got the Wide-band sensor AFR unit, and a boost sensor unit.

 

Please post your impressions. I've looked at these before, but would love to hear some first hand impressions. I would be concerned about daytime readability top down and where to put the modules if you ended up with 3-4 sensors. They do look great in the demos and certainly configurable.

 

With the newly installed AFR gauge, I noticed that at cruising speed (light throttle, 3-4K rpm), the AFR reads between 14.5 and 15, then goes up to 18 at idle.

Does this seem right? I did some searching on the forms, and it seems like the NA cars cruises at about 14psi, so I'm assuming that even though with S/C, but when I'm in negative boost, 14-15 AFR is acceptable?

As soon as I break in my new Diff, I will get on it a bit more to see if my new AFR gauge reads any different than what I dyno'd for when I'm in boost.