Thanks for the write up. I'm checking with my shop now to see how much it would cost to do this.. since my car is still at there shop, and its getting tuned this week.

 

Agreed, it certainly can't hurt.

+1, I knew when I turned the key on the first time the pump sounded much healthier.

 

I did this as well and noticed a difference, now I just need the Boost-A-pump and schedule my C16 tune

 

You can simply check like I did...

Check voltage at battery when idling, then check voltage at fuel pump - the fuel pump should be close to what the battery voltage is.

Remove the 'top cap' on the connector on the fuel pump and attach a multimeter into the exposed top connector points without removing the connector. Now in my case the fuel pump simply wasn't getting enough juice when the car required more fuel as the revs built up especially in vtec the car needs more fuel.

My problem was once I got past 4k rpm the AFR would not drop. I disconnected the fuel connector and ran temp wires on the outside of the car from the battery to the fuel pump, of course the fuel sender/level gauge would not work but it proved the problem was bad grounding/too thin wires. After this as above i wired in a 30a relay and ran wires from the battery through the rubber grommit, through the outside of the door/kick pabel into the back where the fuel pump resides.

 

I know Scott (DSDDCD) was bugging me to make this mod on my car also... I may just have to listen and finally do it.

 

Hmm, I already have a 10 guage wire running from my battery to the trunk with a 30amp fuse for my Amp... Wonder if I could just use a terminal splitter off that with a separate fuse

I'm not really planning to screw with fuel pump wiring, gives me the willies just thinking about it. I'd be to paranoid that the car would burst into flames with me in it.

 

Nice Write Up

I would add one suggestion for those who have a bit extra in the budget. The addition of a Voltage stabilizer/stepper (AMP). Not only are you suppling a constant voltage but you can also step the voltage up to get increased flow when needed.

I would recomend a Flow Charger over the Kenny Bell b/c it has a larger ajustabel voltage range

 

In some cases, a "re-tune" may be desirable.
Mostly when you pump up the juice with a BAP, If you also raise your fuel pressure after you had your tune, then you'll probably end up running richer (the injectors will be spraying more fuel at the higher pressure)

If your pump was operating crappily at high engine loads, and your tuner compensated by using higher IDC, then with the more stable pressure you may need to lower your IDC. So check your AFR's.

Just re-wiring the Walbro may not necessitate a re-tune. But always good to check.

 

^I would definiatly monitor your AF ratios


In my case, my fuel pressure wasn't any higher just WAY more consistent

 

I'm thinking about doing this to my nitrous direct port setup...my tuner had HARD time keep the lean spike out of my afr's when the nitrous came on ( nitrous flows faster then fuel ) because of the quick fuel pressure drop when the n2o comes on ( feeding the n2o nozzles and the fuel rail for the fuel injectors ) ....does anybody think this mod would help my situation?