Why was timing not changed?

 

What? Oops, I'm on crack. I was thinking stock ignition! Timing was retarded to 14 degrees. He said he had it set pretty conservative.

So this is why I'm thinking it was a boost spike. I've heard of the deltagates failing but not too sure if this was the case, but like I said, not sure if the rest of the turbo kit has much to do because it was running very well on and off the dyno until now. The Wastegate was used but in good shape, but like I said, I'm starting to question the wastegate.

 

Actually too much timing and detonation will blow an engine way before a lean condition.

 

It all depends on how your timing is set. If its 14 deg from full boost hit all the way to redline, then thats the problem right there and thats what happened. You never want the timing to just hit some number at full boost hit and hold there all the way to redline. You want the boost to come in soft on full boost hit at around 7-8 deg with your boost level and slowly climb with rpm to 14-15 deg at redline.

I'm willing to bet that your timing is set at one given number and that may be 14 deg as you stated and holding there from full boost hit to redline. This is a BIG no no and will blow an engine everytime. I've seen it way too many times.

 

I was referring to the actual instances of failure, not the odds of one cause blowing the motor first

 

a little detonation wont hurt too much... a lot of detonation, a lean condition or a condition where the egt's are too high will destroy things very quickly. Those conditions cause pre-ignition which is what i see the most damage from in s2000 engines. too little timing along with an over rich condition heats the exhaust valves up, they cause pre-ignition and you get a melted piston. Detonation can be detected early on by looking at the plugs, they will look "fuzzy" with aluminum, detonation will pit the head and pistons, it will beat the bearings out of the engine and if you hold it to the floor while its detonating you will get everything hot enough to cause pre-ignition and melt everything. Normally if its that bad you will hear it and feel it so you can stop long before a catastrophic failure.

its very rare from my experience to see a motor with too much timing, most people are scared and run way too little timing.

I'd be willing to be that there wasnt enough timing, causing the exhaust valves to over-heat, cause pre-ignition and thats what blew both motors.

send me the maps from your ems or post screen shots.

you can at least pull the spark plugs, get some good close up pics and we might be able to help a little more.

 

I'll pull the plugs when I get a chance so at this point I am in no rush to get this back up and running since I just dropped in the new motor 2 months ago.

Again, the sound I'm hearing is quite audible and is like something rattling! Sounds so bad!

I'll also check with my tuner and ask him how he had the ignition tune set up but I remember talking about 14 degrees retard, but again, not sure if it was gradual or what not.

Thanks again lads for the responses.

I'll let you know how everything goes. This is unfortunate because this is the power level that I wanted to keep it at and the money I wanted to spend. Was truly happy and content with my car. I just really want to know what was the cause of this engine's demise and I guess I'll have to wait until I pull it apart!

 

I know how you feel, I had a bearing spin on a freshly rebuilt motor that I had in my car for less than 3 months. Mine turned out to be a timing issue.

Anyway how many miles were on both motors? Maybe the f22 was just getting old and when you added boost it could have been the straw that broke the camels back.

 

Well, I haven't gotten around to doing much with my car yet, but I did manage to pull the plugs and snap some photos so here they are, they go in order from the cylinder closest to the firewall to the cylinder closest to the front of the car:

cylinder closest to the firewall:




Next cylinder, 2nd from the firewall:






Next cylinder, third from the firewall:




Last cylinder, closest to the front of the car:




All 4 in the same order:




I just bought a compression tester so I'll get some numbers sooner than later hopefully but for now, let me know what you think.

Cheers.

 

Oh yeah, I don't know if these plugs have anything to do with my engine blowing but before I was running regular 7 range ngk plugs with no issues and I was on par with a 2011 mustang gt 500 shelby cobra with intake and I had no issues racing him; however I changed my oil and plugs to the iridium 8 range plugs and couple days later i had the blown engine. Is this just coincidental?