That last plug looks to be covered in oil. Your last post is confusing...were these the plugs that were in the motor when it blew?

 

I'd bet you melted the piston in that #1 cylinder. do you still have the old plugs, what'd they look like?

when you changed to the new plugs the motor probably picked up a little power, depending on the conditions of the old plugs when it was tuned it could have leaned out just a tad w/the new ones... i'm really stretching on that. I really thing it was a combination of too much timing being pulled and too much fuel being added w/the knock control. With out seeing a data log or 2 I cant really say about the knock control, but 12%/V is alot of fuel to add...

 

Yes, these were the plugs that were in when my engine blew and these are the plugs that I replaced when I changed my oil. These are the ngk iridiums 8 heat range.

My old plugs were just the regular 7 heat range ngk ones. I'll take some photos of those when I can, and I'll also try and get some compressions numbers.

So is the number 1 cylinder closest to the front of the car? And if so, yes, it was covered in oil so yeah, it looks like it was that cylinder that let loose.

I just bought an engine stand and crane so hopefully I can tear this thing down sooner than later.

 

#4/cosest to the firewall looks overly rich with some possible oil contamination, you may have some slight ring wear, or valve seal leakage. Overly rich fueling can cause fuel wash, a condition where unburnt fuel slips past the rings and into your crankcase, contaminating your oil, reducing its lubrication, this will distry your motor over continuous use, depending on the severity. 2/3 look pretty good which is interesting. #1 is oil fouled and possibly unburnt fuel as well, which means likely a loss of compression.

 

Let this be a lesson to everyone. If your motor blows. Find out why before you go throwing a new engine in.

 

 

Spoolin - Having the timing set from full boost all the way to redline is not always a sure way to blow a motor. It has always been safe practice to be easy on the timing around that area, but it won't necessarily blow the motor. I've seen some tuners set one value in the entire column and the motor is just fine like that. 8 or 9 degrees is not a set value for all boost levels and that can be too little in some cases but sure, that would be fine for higher boost leading up to something like 12 deg up top. This is only an example but yes what you say isn't a bad thing and can be a sure way to be on the safe side, but not necessarily a "must do". Also take into consideration that all EMS will have different timing values for each car.

TO the OP, sorry to hear about your loss but I would probably go talk to your tuner because something doesn't add up. I think you might be the only one to blow two motors at only 300whp. I would check and re-check your setup thoroughly. I wouldn't give up just yet though unless you're SiAdam lol. <---JK

 

Any updates?

Sent using free Tapatalk - Android FTW

 

Well, I just had my old f20 lighty build with rods, lower compression pistons, arp head studs and a few other things and the engine is being swapped over as we speak. I'll have to wait until I can tear apart the f22 to see what happened there but yeah I'll let you know.

I did see photos of the pistons when the builder tore it apart and damn...the pistons tops were toast! This was on the one that was revved to 8400 in 6th gear. In any case, yeah, I'll keep you updated.

Cheers.

 

lmao...6th gear, 8400rpm What MPH is that?