rmerchant3

A local or online tuner should be able to tune any software. Of course everyone has their preference (I prefer tuning AEM products), but If a tuner told me they couldn't tune a particular software, I would be leary. Suggesting another tuning option is viable if it adds obvious benefits over what you are currently running though.

Tuning is tuning, but the software changes the interface. It may take a day or two to become comfortable with it, but it should be smooth sailing after that. My coworker has a K-tuner on his Accord and it seems pretty straight forward. I haven't tuned it yet for him, but I have adjusted his ignition maps and played with it a bit...seems nice.

AP1Chief

All tuners do have preference though, its just what they are more familiar with. For instance, I like AEM EMS the most, cause that's what i learned on, even though i can tune hondata flash etc, to me, v2 EMS is the easiest, but to some v2 EMS is the hardest to learn.

Nfinitecc

After my experience I prefer the dyno because I don’t have good internet and there is just too much variation with shitty AFR monitors like AEM and Innovate. I hired Ap1Chief but my internet was so slow and my wideband input was off so I didn’t feel comfortable proceeding. I went through 3 Bosche sensors in total and they never where any good. I now have a Ballenger AFR monitor with a NTK sensor and it’s dead on and made tuning easy. It was an expensive mistake trying etuning where I live.

S2kMano

How exactly does e tune work, what would I need to e tune

Nfinitecc

You just need an accurate AFR controller that Can data log to your engine management so you can transmit information with your tuner.

Chuck S

An Etune can be done "real time" just like having a tuner and laptop in the passenger seat but that requires a hyper-accurate and fast internet connection which can be flaky on the road.

My Gernby FlashPro "road tune" took 3 weekends. An etune in that data was exchanged via email. Far from instantaneous but the results were fantastic. His method used seven different diagnostic tunes/calibrations be entered in the ECU and three "pulls" form about 1800 to 8000 rpm at full throttle in 3d gear capturing the data each time. The resultant 21 data packets were then emailed to him and within a few days a new set was emailed to me to repeat the procedure. I did this three times and got a final calibration which I then ran in fairly normal driving and sent the data back to him for verification. None of the diagnostic calibrations are suitable for general driving. There's one nicknamed "Prius pulling a trailer" that takes forever to hit 8000 rpm (80mph in 3d gear).

This took 3 weekends to take advantage of minimal traffic and police protection on I77 early on Sunday mornings. Making 21 full throttle acceleration runs to 80mph on the same stretch of road might be noticeable.

-- Chuck

EOE

@AP1Chief , What do you do with knock readings and knock settings. I've been pretty astonished to see that some of the F20C and F22C configs come with "Knock Feedback Enabled" unchecked.

Have you found our platform's OEM knock sensor to be sufficient with Hondata and stand-alone units? I'm guessing our Knock sensor is a resonant vs non-resonant type... so considered to be a narrow-band as oppose to a wide-band knock sensor.

Given F22C's 87mm bore size, we're looking at 6.64kHz? (6.6kHz-ish) . What do you use for smoothing and gain? Sorry to bombard with these questions, but since you're tuning so much it'd be interesting to hear your take on... well... how you handle knock with our platform.

AP1Chief

I get a base line run to see where the voltages are, than tune from there.