Hey guys so my car has not been driven lately, as i have been having some vibration with my turbo kit that im trying to deal with. Manifold cracked shipped out to Pang, repaired it, got it back in the car, now trying to drive it as least as possible till i get some braces installed to help the vibration. SO back to the issue , my car has been sitting for about 2 weeks now, I start it up , drive it around the block every other day to not let the battery die, etc. Yesterday I start the car and immediately high idle around the 2.5k range, Afrs are at around 11-12.5 , and notice my temp gauge is not working. I continue to let it idle for about 20 minutes and out of no where the temp gauge starts to work and the car returns to normal idle and normal AFRs. Today I go to start it again and same problem though this time it never seems to go back to normal , even after a small drive. Afr fluctuates on the rich side , Idle is fluctuating between 1500-2500rpms , and temp gauge seems to cut out then work for a while, then cut out again. Never ran into something like this. it recently got colder out, here in FL , 60s. not sure if this is a cause to this new issue. Info on the car: Pfabs front facing manifold kit, precision ball bearing 6266, ID1000s, E85, 2005 with 70k miles. Here is a video I made a few minutes ago of the issue in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bjH...ature=youtu.be


What you guys think?

 

bump. Can anyone help me out?

 

Maybe you have a bad thermostat that's stuck open. Do you have any heat when driving? AFR should be richer and idle should be higher on a cold start...well, mine is. Maybe your AFR fluctuates because your coolant temperature fluctuates too. Not sure what EMS you have, but I would log the relevant parameters if you could and see what's going on.

 

Not sure if its the thermostat. What do you mean if I have heat while driving? Do you mean the heater? Yes heater works while driving. I agree Afr should be richer and idle should be higher on cold start. My car did this normally before but then goes back to normal after reaching normal temps. This time Afrs seem to never settle back to normal, nor does the idle and temp gauge seems out of whack. Im running AEM series 2 EMS. Not sure how to log parameters. never thought about doing anything like that myself, always been scared of changing something in the tune by mistake or something.

 

Yo is this same chris who messaged me on iG?? I didn't know you have an 05. I was thinking you got 06+ for drive by wire. Anyways as far as I know I don't think people really bad issues with aemv2 with their non dbw. If you tuner can't do it send the ems to aem and see what they say. Best of luck

 

i have had issues with idle air control valves one had a bent screw from factory one had carbon and i welded on ones body which weakened the bearing and it failed a few months later the bent screw only gave me trouble after i took the hot water away i get stainless screws from ace hardware and clean them with the servo motor off seems to work the best. this fixed my high idle twice though once was my own doing cant tig the water line holes up without hurting the bearings