AP1 Comptech SC on 04 AP2
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,208
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From: Gurnee, IL
Hmm, has it? I talked with another member and he recommended something sturdier such as urethane. I'll give it a shot.
Oh, I was also sent the s2000 parts list with the prices. I can email this to anyone who would like it. Maybe sticky?
FYI, the fuel rail adapter is $49, banjo is $29, and the fuel line with fittings is $89!
Oh, I was also sent the s2000 parts list with the prices. I can email this to anyone who would like it. Maybe sticky?
FYI, the fuel rail adapter is $49, banjo is $29, and the fuel line with fittings is $89!
Community Organizer
Joined: Jun 2007
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1307065038' post='20644210
The ESM is only a map clamp to hide boost. It has no other function and so it can be used on an ap1/ap2.
I make 4psi before vtec kicks in with my set up. I'm positive my ECU will freak out as soon as it sees any positive pressure. The Electronic Signal Modifier's job is to maintain a constant voltage to the ECU, fooling it into thinking its not seeing boost. In other words clamping the MAP. You can achive the same thing with a MAP block spacer. This is a mechanical means of doing the same thing as the ESM, although the ESM seems to have a better track record at working flawlessly. This has nothing to do with vtec my friend.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,589
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From: New England
1) Glad this thread is still going. I went to my local shop and looking to buy the -6 Fuel line from Bonjo to FPR and couldn't find anything. Comp-tech lists it for $89 + $28 for 2 Fittings.... WOW any suggestions where I can get the fuel line and both fittings cheaper?
2) Plus I have to get those rubber bushings for $225? sheesh maybe I should just reuse mine. Is it okay if they little smushed and weathered or I shouldn't risk it?
2) Plus I have to get those rubber bushings for $225? sheesh maybe I should just reuse mine. Is it okay if they little smushed and weathered or I shouldn't risk it?
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,208
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From: Gurnee, IL
Do you have the fuel rail fitting? That seems to be the key part and is $59.
If not, comptech charges $59 for that fitting, $29 for -6 to banjo,, 9.98 for the two crush washers, $4.99 for the banjo bolt, along with $89 for the actual line with the two fitting at the end.
Once you pick up that Fuel rail adapter, you should be able to construct your own line at a brak line/ hose shop.
I actually picked up a second comptech fmu once I realized how much that line and fitting were.
2) If you think the bushings are bad, change them. I honestly wouldnt chance it. Have you gone to the ace hardware store? I was there yesterday and saw something that looked like it would work. It had a nut attached on the inside of the hole, but was at the end and should/ would need to be cut off. They were 3.16 each.
If not, comptech charges $59 for that fitting, $29 for -6 to banjo,, 9.98 for the two crush washers, $4.99 for the banjo bolt, along with $89 for the actual line with the two fitting at the end.
Once you pick up that Fuel rail adapter, you should be able to construct your own line at a brak line/ hose shop.
I actually picked up a second comptech fmu once I realized how much that line and fitting were.
2) If you think the bushings are bad, change them. I honestly wouldnt chance it. Have you gone to the ace hardware store? I was there yesterday and saw something that looked like it would work. It had a nut attached on the inside of the hole, but was at the end and should/ would need to be cut off. They were 3.16 each.
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,208
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From: Gurnee, IL
...or now that I think about it, pick up some urethane washers since it looks like you have the metal sleeves.
Also, here is a link to an install that features a kit that doesn't use those isolator bushings.
http://driftopia.com/blog/2008/01/03...e-honda-s2000/
Also, here is a link to an install that features a kit that doesn't use those isolator bushings.
http://driftopia.com/blog/2008/01/03...e-honda-s2000/
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,589
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From: New England
Also forgot to ask. How do I know what length bolts to get. Comptech's checklist has the sizing for example, 10x45, 10x30, 10x55 Flange Bolt etc... However I don't know what length to look for?
Same goes for Vacuum hoses, it tells you the length but not the diameter in this case.
Same goes for Vacuum hoses, it tells you the length but not the diameter in this case.
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,208
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From: Gurnee, IL
The 2" vacuum, 17" vacuum, 22" vacuum, 5" tank to ACS, 26" ACS to ACV and 35" from the FPR are all 1/8 in inside diameter.
If you can, pull off vacuum lime from your fpr on top of your rail. It's exactly like that. I bought about 15ft myself.
In addition to that you'll need 40" of 1/2" hose and a foot of 5/16" coolant hose.
Ace had all of your mentioned bolts. What 10x55 mm flange bolt will look like at ace ...10mm x 1.25 -55 flange bolt
If you can, pull off vacuum lime from your fpr on top of your rail. It's exactly like that. I bought about 15ft myself.
In addition to that you'll need 40" of 1/2" hose and a foot of 5/16" coolant hose.
Ace had all of your mentioned bolts. What 10x55 mm flange bolt will look like at ace ...10mm x 1.25 -55 flange bolt
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1308797954' post='20710676
Who told you that?
The hiccup issue was discovered when I installed my CTSC from the very first shipment from the factory. At VTEC transition the even flow in the throttle body was interrupted and the MAP sensor signal fell causing the ECU to temporarily go into Limp mode. In working with Shad Huntley the lead engineer for Comptech we tried to eliminate it using check valves to no avail. One of the other early adopters in the Northwest was an electrical engineer and proposed an electrical circuit which we named the Ghost Booster in May of 2001. Shad agreed that the electrical approach was the proper approach but wanted to avoid the cost of the Ghost Booster circuit.
I built and installed the first Ghost Booster. It's a circuit with a reference MAP sensor in the box with two isolation amplifiers, one fed by the reference MAP and the other fed by the throttle body MAP. Between them is a comparative amplifier that senses when there is a negative variance between them and switches the input to the ECU from the TB MAP to the reference MAP while and only while the TB MAP output is below the static norm. Shad's argument was that a simple voltage clamp circuit would do that same job at much lower cost. He was right and that is what the ESM is. It locks the voltage that the ECU sees not allowing it to hiccup below the static reference voltage of 2.9-something volts.
I still have the original Ghost Booster and the circuit tuning box in my garage.
Do a search on this forum for Ghost Booster in the February-May 2001 time frame when we got the first shipment of CTSCs and you can track the history and the REAL ISSUE.
So after you basically just said what I did, was your point in all this to get down to the arbitrary specifics? Or boast how you built a failed ESM? Not sure who Shad is, but our local long time member Ray (RT) over here in Seattle where I reside, engineered the Comptech ESM that works and was offered in Comptech kits up until recent, when they switched to the newly developed FVM box that controls vtec engagement, Map clamp and fuel correction in one.
