Ap1 fuel system into Ap2
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ap1 fuel system into Ap2
im looking to convert my Ap2 to a return style fuel system, is it possible to take the factory parts from an Ap1 and install them on my car...
Also if it is possible can I do the opposite and install my Ap2 parts back onto the ap1?
Thanks
Also if it is possible can I do the opposite and install my Ap2 parts back onto the ap1?
Thanks
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm aware of the sos kit and the inline pro kit but those are close to 800-900 bucks....if I can swap parts between ap1 and ap2 I can just throw my buddy with an ap1 a 24 pack.
has anyone tried piecing together a kit..... ^^^^pics of ap1 fuel system
#5
I remember something different about how honda secures the hangar in the tank. Youll have to notch the metal ring to fit ap1 fuel assembly hangar. The real question is how well the returnless system is back compatible. He knows youll be costing him a complete re tune?
#6
For the fuss all said and done i think the directions and new equipment is worth it, seeing as your trying to swap with a friend and both cars need to work in the end. If you could find this stuff in a junk yard then by all means its worth it. The directions are worth atleast $75 to me. The notch on the hangar has to be right or the pump will face wrong way.
iirc there is also some AN quick connects and fittings for some reason SOS deletes the oem fuel feed to the rail. Cant remember why. Honestly if you have a friend and the extra hands i would just try to swap complete furl tanks if it works that would help alot i think. Then just focus on rails, injector fitment.
iirc there is also some AN quick connects and fittings for some reason SOS deletes the oem fuel feed to the rail. Cant remember why. Honestly if you have a friend and the extra hands i would just try to swap complete furl tanks if it works that would help alot i think. Then just focus on rails, injector fitment.
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; 07-03-2017 at 10:30 AM.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I already have id1000cc injectors but I'm not against getting a bigger fuel rail as my last motor seemed to not be getting enough fuel to the outside pistons. If I could get all the parts from a junked s2000 and make it work I think it would be much cheaper.
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#8
Along with sos instrctions the kit was very straight forward as far as install went. Given 80% of the kit was oem honda equipment i dont see why you couldnt put a kit together for cheaper. But there are a bunch of fittings, clips, washers, and nuts that you will be going back and forth from home and a shop. So to save a lot of potential headaches i would just suggest the sos kit but if saving money is your only goal then go for it on your own. I finished the install in one day...maybe 3-4hrs worth of work trouble free
#9
you have ID1Ks for what? Ap1 or Ap2? cause I had ap2 ID1ks and the Ap1 fuel rail had to be machined and there is two collar/bushings that go under the "studs" that secure the fuel rail. I'm guessing the Ap1 "studs" are taller than the Ap2. So not only are the injector ports different but the height as well. These are things youll save time by knowing b4 hand so you can set yourself up for success. took me and a friend 3hrs with the SOS kit.
Just out of curiousity. what kit do you want to run, or are running? whats your end goal? There has been instances of a returnless system I think running E85 around 500whp (king tut) iirc don't quote me I think me and him were speaking about it. I know two other people ran around the 470's and 480 mark, even without the SOS in tank upgraded returnless fuel pressure regulator. One of them is annotated on the power chart, Makima808. He had a 09 returnless, ID1ks and just a 340 pump, and stock wiring. soo not everyone sets the example or standard per say but curious to what your going for because if its around the pump octane power output (potential) you could be good.
I'm starting to feel sometimes depending on peoples experience OEM is just so reliable because 1: you have not touched it yet lol (this includes me as well) not knockin on ya. 2: it was put together by experience and the right tools. But If your goal is higher then by all means "Get bent for lent" -RCR
Just out of curiousity. what kit do you want to run, or are running? whats your end goal? There has been instances of a returnless system I think running E85 around 500whp (king tut) iirc don't quote me I think me and him were speaking about it. I know two other people ran around the 470's and 480 mark, even without the SOS in tank upgraded returnless fuel pressure regulator. One of them is annotated on the power chart, Makima808. He had a 09 returnless, ID1ks and just a 340 pump, and stock wiring. soo not everyone sets the example or standard per say but curious to what your going for because if its around the pump octane power output (potential) you could be good.
I'm starting to feel sometimes depending on peoples experience OEM is just so reliable because 1: you have not touched it yet lol (this includes me as well) not knockin on ya. 2: it was put together by experience and the right tools. But If your goal is higher then by all means "Get bent for lent" -RCR
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; 07-03-2017 at 02:56 PM.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
you have ID1Ks for what? Ap1 or Ap2? cause I had ap2 ID1ks and the Ap1 fuel rail had to be machined and there is two collar/bushings that go under the "studs" that secure the fuel rail. I'm guessing the Ap1 "studs" are taller than the Ap2. So not only are the injector ports different but the height as well. These are things youll save time by knowing b4 hand so you can set yourself up for success. took me and a friend 3hrs with the SOS kit.
Just out of curiousity. what kit do you want to run, or are running? whats your end goal? There has been instances of a returnless system I think running E85 around 500whp (king tut) iirc don't quote me I think me and him were speaking about it. I know two other people ran around the 470's and 480 mark, even without the SOS in tank upgraded returnless fuel pressure regulator. One of them is annotated on the power chart, Makima808. He had a 09 returnless, ID1ks and just a 340 pump, and stock wiring. soo not everyone sets the example or standard per say but curious to what your going for because if its around the pump octane power output (potential) you could be good.
I'm starting to feel sometimes depending on peoples experience OEM is just so reliable because 1: you have not touched it yet lol (this includes me as well) not knockin on ya. 2: it was put together by experience and the right tools. But If your goal is higher then by all means "Get bent for lent" -RCR
Just out of curiousity. what kit do you want to run, or are running? whats your end goal? There has been instances of a returnless system I think running E85 around 500whp (king tut) iirc don't quote me I think me and him were speaking about it. I know two other people ran around the 470's and 480 mark, even without the SOS in tank upgraded returnless fuel pressure regulator. One of them is annotated on the power chart, Makima808. He had a 09 returnless, ID1ks and just a 340 pump, and stock wiring. soo not everyone sets the example or standard per say but curious to what your going for because if its around the pump octane power output (potential) you could be good.
I'm starting to feel sometimes depending on peoples experience OEM is just so reliable because 1: you have not touched it yet lol (this includes me as well) not knockin on ya. 2: it was put together by experience and the right tools. But If your goal is higher then by all means "Get bent for lent" -RCR
I have a 2007 with a Ctsc kit with the 1200, id1000, 340 pump, ct exhaust, at 12psi making 360whp on a low reading dyno. And this is on 91 octane. I would love to keep it stock and just up the boost if that's possible. My goal is mid 400s. Maybe I should do a in tank sos fuel pressure regulator ($50) and take it to evasive to be tuned???
do I need massive injectors like 1700cc if I'm keeping everything else stock???