Axle options, DSS, custom and...
I posted this in another thread, and will post here as well.
I would say STAY AWAY from the DSS 2.9 axles. My original axles got the pitted cv-joints, and stuff are really expensive here in Norway. So i paid just a little more for the DSS axles than a new joint in Norway. Too bad I did.. After just a few weeks of normal driving they were making a lot of sounds when pulling off, in roundabouts etc. They had gotten a BIG slack just from normal driving after a few weeks ( 8 weeks tops). After some arguing, they took them back (through the dealer I bought them from) even though they didn't want to at first. After quite a while (a couple of months?), I got them back. Since they didn't write on the shipping document that they werrepaireded, I had to pay taxes (25%) ONE MORE TIME. They seemed tight and fine when I got them back, so I put them back on the car. Same shit again. Just a few weeks of normal driving, and this time one time on autocross they were the same shit and the joint got quite a bit of slack again. They will not repair them again, and they will not even answer my e-mails anymore. The least I would expect was to get my money back for this shitty axles.
So I have taken the crappy axles off again, and put the OEM axles back.. I will really recommend you NOT to buy the DSS axles. All this was on my car still being NA and 211whp. I believe I have found the problem too. When I switched back to OEM, I measured the length. The axles were both significantly longer. One of the axles were appr. 16mm longer, and the other one was appr. 18mm longer! So I think they might be "pressed" together from both ends.
I would say STAY AWAY from the DSS 2.9 axles. My original axles got the pitted cv-joints, and stuff are really expensive here in Norway. So i paid just a little more for the DSS axles than a new joint in Norway. Too bad I did.. After just a few weeks of normal driving they were making a lot of sounds when pulling off, in roundabouts etc. They had gotten a BIG slack just from normal driving after a few weeks ( 8 weeks tops). After some arguing, they took them back (through the dealer I bought them from) even though they didn't want to at first. After quite a while (a couple of months?), I got them back. Since they didn't write on the shipping document that they werrepaireded, I had to pay taxes (25%) ONE MORE TIME. They seemed tight and fine when I got them back, so I put them back on the car. Same shit again. Just a few weeks of normal driving, and this time one time on autocross they were the same shit and the joint got quite a bit of slack again. They will not repair them again, and they will not even answer my e-mails anymore. The least I would expect was to get my money back for this shitty axles.
So I have taken the crappy axles off again, and put the OEM axles back.. I will really recommend you NOT to buy the DSS axles. All this was on my car still being NA and 211whp. I believe I have found the problem too. When I switched back to OEM, I measured the length. The axles were both significantly longer. One of the axles were appr. 16mm longer, and the other one was appr. 18mm longer! So I think they might be "pressed" together from both ends.
Hi, im Frank from the Driveshaft Shop and from what im reading here some of the issue was with the distributor and some with us, i cant help widistributorrubutor but i can help with the axles (please PM me about the distributor as there not up to our standon'ts, dont post idon't i dont know the whole story. a PM woappreciatedaciated)
We try to go out of our way to help out customers and do whats right, we do not ever "not" respond and always work with some one to make sure the product is 100%. would you be willing to share what the real issue is and in return ill make a set and correct the problems for you (and send it with correct paperwork) We do make the axles longer on purpose as they are short from the factory and after the cars are lowered the distance from the hub to the wheel is even greater making the issue even worse. i had been thinking about changing the inner CV over to tPorschem porsche like we use on the level 5 kits but i would need dimensions from a few people as there not as forgiving on length as the stock CV with the tripod (the tripod is the issue with the stock ones) so ill leave this up to you.As usual im here to help and at the same time see what we can do to make the axles better for community
p.s. to the moderators, please leave the this post up if i have to become a vendor just send a bill to frank@driveshaftshop.com
Hi. Thanks for taking your time to answer here! The problem is the axles have gotten a significant slack in the joint in a very short period of time and very few miles/short distance as described. Sent you pm!
[quote name='cmn' timestamp='1327012880' post='21333542']Hi. Thanks for taking your time to answer here! The problem is the axles have gotten a significant slack in the joint in a very short period of time and very few miles/short distance as described. Sent you pm!
[/quotOK
ok, this is what i had in mind. i think the angle ofCVhe Cv is whats causing the failures on the stock axle andcurrentrrent desespeciallyially if the car is lowered)both are using a Tripod design but our has a much larger one with nebearingsrings and we would have though the bigger diameter would have given more surface area so it would be stronger. What i would like to do is change the design to the CV on the right (108mm Porsche style) this way there would be 6 contact points instead of 3 and it would be smoother transition of power as the ball and cage style is better at angle. what do you think ?
p.s. if you ever have an issue with any of our products please let me know, its the only way i will get to changing thing around.
ok, this is what i had in mind. i think the angle ofCVhe Cv is whats causing the failures on the stock axle andcurrentrrent desespeciallyially if the car is lowered)both are using a Tripod design but our has a much larger one with nebearingsrings and we would have though the bigger diameter would have given more surface area so it would be stronger. What i would like to do is change the design to the CV on the right (108mm Porsche style) this way there would be 6 contact points instead of 3 and it would be smoother transition of power as the ball and cage style is better at angle. what do you think ?
p.s. if you ever have an issue with any of our products please let me know, its the only way i will get to changing thing around.
p.s. if you ever have an issue with any of our products please let me know, its the only way i will get to changing thing around.
Good stuff, great to hear from the Vendors, this kind of support is not easy but that often makes all the difference in the world!!
Maybe DSS has improved vs. my nightmare experience back in 2008 when I bought a set of 2.9s for my PuddyMod diff. Their design/tolerances vibrated enough to ruin my PuddyMod diff during the 500 mile break-in period. Had to send the diff back (Ben fixed it - said he'd never seen that, but stood behind his work).
The distributor I got those offending DSS axles from refused to refund. Instead, Lightning hard-sold a set of Nissan 2.9 axles, saying no return & that I'd have better luck eBay-ing those. I never took the Nissan 2.9s out of the box. Tried eBay-ing & they wouldn't sell at less than half the price. $1000 right into the garbage.
Laivins Racecars then prototyped a Ford 8.8" solution under my car, along with Porsche style CVs, the G-Force trans / bellhousing solution & driveshaft. Had no problems since installing that setup early '09. That 8.8 solution also includes a drain plug tapped into the cover, so it's a snap to change fluids.
The distributor I got those offending DSS axles from refused to refund. Instead, Lightning hard-sold a set of Nissan 2.9 axles, saying no return & that I'd have better luck eBay-ing those. I never took the Nissan 2.9s out of the box. Tried eBay-ing & they wouldn't sell at less than half the price. $1000 right into the garbage.
Laivins Racecars then prototyped a Ford 8.8" solution under my car, along with Porsche style CVs, the G-Force trans / bellhousing solution & driveshaft. Had no problems since installing that setup early '09. That 8.8 solution also includes a drain plug tapped into the cover, so it's a snap to change fluids.
Frank, thanks for the info! You found a forum filled with axle breakers here. 
We discussed the outer joint and the weak OEM splines, is there any way you guys can make a strong OEM sized axle? Soooo much easier when you can bring stock axle extra to the races or mount one while you wait for spare parts.
Maybe this is something I want because I live far away and have long shipping times but would also be great for the people without press, hard to swap hubs in a garage.

We discussed the outer joint and the weak OEM splines, is there any way you guys can make a strong OEM sized axle? Soooo much easier when you can bring stock axle extra to the races or mount one while you wait for spare parts.
Maybe this is something I want because I live far away and have long shipping times but would also be great for the people without press, hard to swap hubs in a garage.
Have sent a few e-mails with Frank now, and will take some measurements as soon as I have the chance. Great that it's beeing taken seriously and they're willing to help. Looking forward to getting axles with Porsche style CV's. Hope that will work!
Have to tell you guys, I deal with a lot of manufacturers/importors/wholesalers being in the business and Frank and the guys from Drive Shaft Shop are the amongst the best and as far as I can determine universally so regarded from discussions at PRI. I got Frank in on this when it came to my attention and he was eager to address it. Sure there is some regional culture when you talk to some of the guys on the phone but if you can get past the drawl they're pretty damn knowledgable and customer oriented - and maybe they think we talk funny too!
Frank made me up a set of shafts for my Honda powered clubman car. It has Miata uprights/outer CV's and honda differential. I went with the 6 ball Porsche inner CV's rather than the tripod setup. No problems with vibration. Frank also put some larger spined outer CV's from their V8 miata setup which seems to have stopped me snapping that end on race starts.









