2000 S2000 COMPTECH SC KIT WITH AFTERCOOLER, 37K MILES

ABOUT 3 MONTHS AGO I HAD AN BAD IDLING PROBLEM HESITATION DURING ACCELERATION, REALLY UNDRIVEABLE, SO I REPLACED THE MAP SENSOR, EVERYTHING WENT BACK 2 NORMAL, IT WAS PERFECT, NOW YESTERDAY THE S2K IS DOING THE SAME BAD IDLING, MY AIR FUEL RATIO IS AT FULL RICH, THROWING OUT BLACK SUPER RICH SMOKE, SO I CAME HOME AND PARKED IT, I WENT TO HONDA AND ORDERED ANOTHER MAP SENSOR AND INSTALLED IT, RESET THE ECU AND STARTED IT AND STILL DOING THE SAME!!! IDLE IS PATHETHIC, BUT AS SOON AS I PULL OFF THE CONNECTOR TO THE MAP SENSOR, IT IDLES GOOD BUT WHEN I RAISE THE RPMS TO ABOUT 35OO THE ENGINE JUST CUTS OFF BY IT SELF. NOW I REALLY DON'T KNOW WHATS HAPPENING CAN SOMEONE HELP?

 

1. You're YELLING. Please stop! Take your CAPS LOCK off.

2. Wrong forum. Technical is not for this. Forced Induction is. I'm sure the mod will move it soon for you.

3. Lack of more information:
3a. What kind of supercharger?
3b. What do you mean by "bad idle"?
3c. How long has the blower been on the car?
3d. How did you do the wiring connections for the ESM?

Without knowing any of the above, I'm going to take a wild guess and a stab at it. It may have absolutely no bearing upon your situation as you have not provided enough info to determine exactly what your situation is.

It's a Comptech, right?
It's been on the car for less than a year, yes?
When you wired up the ESM, you either used the crimp connectors or just twisted the wires together and taped them or you did a really quick job of soldering, right?

Go back and solder ALL of those connections or re-solder them better, unclip the MAP harness and clip it back on. Then secure the MAP wiring harness with a zip tie, reset the ECU.

 

Moving.

 

last night i started up the s2k and just let it idle, after a while of just playing with it, everything came back 2 normal i drove it but its like when i hit a bump or something it drives fine but other times when im close to 0 psi on the gauge it has major hesitation like the engine sounds louder but does not accelerate the way it should??

 

I asked a bunch of questions earlier. If you don't want to answer them but keep asking questions, I'm done here. Good luck.

 

nice..

 

3. Lack of more information:
3a. What kind of supercharger?
3b. What do you mean by "bad idle"?
3c. How long has the blower been on the car?
3d. How did you do the wiring connections for the ESM


ok here are the answers
comptech novi 1000 with after cooler
bad idle like= 1st cyclinder closet to front is skipping, excessive fuel
when i bought the car the blower was on it, id say total time about 1/2year
i didn't do the wiring, really dont know bout that

now some new info about the situation:
the other night the car was idling fine as soon as i got in the car and shut the door the car just shut off, then i started it again, and here we go again same skipping air fuel at max rich at idle, so i drove it, i hit a bump and everything went back to normal again, but when i hit bumps i can feel the lost of power surge for a qik second then it get back to normal, it really is tough to get running right when the engine is cold and hasn't been cranked in a while, i also forgot to mention there is a O2 simulator on it, it is a plug and play, could that maybe have gone bad for it 2 do this hesition?

 

And you didn't think this stuff was important enough to mention right from the beginning?

How did you determine that it's #1 cylinder????? (This would also be nice information to tell us.)

1/2 year is about the average length of time for quite a few Comptech kits to start having this sort of electronic issues. You must go to the ESM and isolate ALL the wiring connections to determine that .........................
1. They are all correct and present.
2. They are all SOLDERED.
Failing this, you may have a bad ESM.
PS. If your screen name is correct and you have 353 HP, is this at the crank or at the wheels? If it's at the wheels, then you do not have a stock Comptech kit. If this is the case, then you have not told us many more things, in which case, this is my last post here.
O2 sim - I take it you have a test pipe, yes? If not ................ ??????
If the O2 sim is on the sensor in the test pipe (or formerly the cat) and if it's not working, you'd get a CEL. Do you?

ps. Your screen name would suggest your car is pushing 353 HP. Is this at the crank or at the wheels? If it's at the wheels, then you do not have a stock Comptech kit and you have not told us even more stuff that would be pertinent to this situation.

 

Hahaha, i like the shut the door and it cuts out. Check the black box that came with the comptech kit . If you remove the door sill and then pop out the plastic nail by the clutch pedal and pull that whole piece out. Make sure all the wires are tight because if it comes loose it will do everything you explained, happened to me.

 

This is pretty typical of some of the early Comptech installations when crimp connectors were supplied and that's all that people used. In fact, it was not uncommon to be driving down the road, have the car go into spasms, driver "kicks" the kick panel to firm up the connections and have the car drive fine for another few miles.
It was also common to have shops diagnose this as a bad MAP sensor. MAPs were changed for new ones and the car would drive fine for another few days and then right back to driving like crap. ONLY when the connections were carefully soldered (and in some cases, re-soldered) did the problems finally go away.