S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Battling t3h heat

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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:04 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 0piston,Jun 8 2009, 10:38 AM
a couple of engineers on there said that there will be turbulance created when the air travels over the hood and will acutally curl and suck back in instead of out because of the negative airpressure. so they concluded that heat will escape when the car is at idle but air but will not escape from the engine compartment unless there is an air guide coming in--
The base of the windshield can create a high pressure area. That's why the theory is that the air will curl back under the hood. That's the whole principle of the cowl induction hood on old school muscle cars. Just a little FYI
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Under_Pressure,Jun 8 2009, 10:57 AM
U can also add washers in the rear to angle the hood to vent more air out.
It is the way I have my hood and with only about 1.5" of lift in the back it doesn't look bad either. Painted the parts the same as the car and haven't had a heating issue ever again. Keeps all the temps down and cost about $5.00 in parts and about 20 minutes with paint time.

-chris
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 0piston,Jun 8 2009, 10:38 AM
nice work, i remember reading about this on another forum... a couple of engineers on there said that there will be turbulance created when the air travels over the hood and will acutally curl and suck back in instead of out because of the negative airpressure. so they concluded that heat will escape when the car is at idle but air but will not escape from the engine compartment unless there is an air guide coming in--something like a v mount\vented hood setup... but its hard argue when you have proof it works, thanks for sharing!
J's/ Mugen CF hood FTW. I can see all the heat rising out at stop lights its like 2x more than when the car was NA
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Old Jun 8, 2009 | 09:52 PM
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do any of you guys with the lifted hood have a pic. I want to see what you are talking about.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 05:27 AM
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I also removed the forward weather stripping.... The piece that attaches to he front of the bumper. I just have generic washer/bolt combo holding the bumper on, instead of Honda's OEM flat/fat phillips-head bolts... This helps with any heatsoak when stopped, as the heat off the radiator does not need to travel the entire length of the hood to exit...

I have not noticed any additional road noise or anything either...

John
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 06:11 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by spdracerut,Jun 9 2009, 01:04 AM
The base of the windshield can create a high pressure area. That's why the theory is that the air will curl back under the hood. That's the whole principle of the cowl induction hood on old school muscle cars. Just a little FYI
well if this is true, then i will def space out my hood. my intake is crammed right there on the passenger side. if air is being sucked in while moving, thats a win for me
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by camuman,Jun 9 2009, 06:11 AM
well if this is true, then i will def space out my hood. my intake is crammed right there on the passenger side. if air is being sucked in while moving, thats a win for me
http://www.camaro-untoldsecrets.com/...es/rpo_zl2.htm
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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Some pics. I hope this helps. I used longer factory style bolts
, overs-sized bushings for support, and different lockwashers.






-Chris
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #19  
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I wouldnt do that if i were you. The hot temps are designed to flow out from under the car, not through the rear of the hood if you remove the weather stripping. This can cause the plastic up there melt and ive seen it first hand.
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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My weather stripping was never on my car since I bought it. I never knew something was supposed to be there until about 10 months ago.
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