Kind of a long post, but I think it might be helpful for some. My AP1 was supercharged when I got it last summer - circa 2003 basic Comptech kit with a Novi 1000, about 290 hp. I wanted more and this forum helped me get there the right way. I added an aftercooler, AEM v2, ID 1000, up the boost to 10 lbs etc. Then, I decided to autocross my 350 whp 2800 lb beast. Supposedly the BEST handling car ever produced (at least for the price). It did not go well. It was bad. It was ugly. In my first event I finished third to last in raw time out of 80.

Yes, I was new to the sport. But, I'm 45, been racing bikes since I was 5, on and of road, and driven well over a million miles, many of those in some pretty fast cars. In the first run I realized the S was not designed to handle the additional hp.

At that first event last September I was running newly purchased, used (but like new) 17X9 Enkei's 255 square with Sumitomos ZII's - AND IT SUCKED. Dangerous snap over steer.

Since then I have been working on getting the car more controllable and competitive (as well as myself). Six months later at today's event the S was by far the most balanced since I started, with a slight tendency to UNDERSTEER. I still have a lot to learn, but it was a slow and very technical course and I beat all the STR and BS guys - many of these guys are very good drivers and their skill more than makes up for the lack of hp...

Anyway, I have a setup that seems to be out of the norm - a true stagger (double stagger)and since its working on a FI'ed car, I thought I'd share. Here's my setup:

Wheels - double stagger that's barely noticeable; Front - Enkei 17X9 +45 255/40. Rear - 18X9.5 +45 265/35. Running BFG R1's for autocross, but Dunlop ZII's come in the same sizes. Fenders are rolled, no pull, no problems.

Alignment - Front - Camber -2.9, Caster 6.2, Toe 0. Rear - Camber -2.6, Toe .20.

Coilovers - KW Clubsports, 571 lb spring all round. Front - Rebound 6 clicks from full hard, Compressions 8 clicks out, Rear - Rebound 8 clicks out, compression 3 clicks out. I'll soften the front a bit for the next event.

Swaybars - Gendron solid bar (not the monster) up front, 2nd hole from softest. MX-5 bar in the rear.

J's S1 lower ball joints,

I know many just built for max hp. Some build for drag. Most probably built more some added kick, but want to keep the S's handling the way it was meant to be. Well, I thing I am getting close. Maybe this will help some of you out. Most of the on the Race section aren't FI and the advice is helpful, but doesn't really apply unless it's a dedicated race car.

Here's a link to a pic at speed and mostly balanced, maybe decal or light brake. PIC

 

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You said non-staggered, but that is definitely staggered unless you messed the wheel specs up bad... Surely you must have meant "true staggered" since they are both different diameter as well as different widths?

Anyways, thanks for the rest of the info.

Did you intentionally set it up to understeer (rather than oversteer) slightly? Or that's just how it ended up? Just curious.

Did you have all the suspension mods when you had the non-staggered (17x9 square) setup? If so, how much time did you spend dialing it in? Just curious if the staggered setup really made that much of a difference or if the suspension mods helped too.

Any videos?

 

I don't understand what "true" nonstaggered is. Isn't it pretty much black and white as in staggered or nonstaggered? But props to building a well rounded car. Definitely the direction I want to go when I get the cash + aero.

 

The pic looks like the rims are double staggered

 

Going different widths front to rear as well as different diameters would be considered "double staggered" op and I can understand the need for that when wanting to exceed a 255 as you did in the rear to help get the rear to stick with that extra power. I also run a 255 up front, but use a 295 in rear to keep the car balanced the way I like it. I'm still keeping with 17 all the way around however (running an odd ball size in rear to be able to achieve without increase sidewall)

Personally I find FI to be a good option for big tracks, not so much auto x. If your going to add roughly 80lb up front negatively effecting the cars balance, you need to be able to best capitalize on that, and that means big tracks with elevation changes, straightaway's and long sweepers. Non of which you find in a parking lot dodging cones. Not saying you couldn't ultimately be faster with more practice, but that 80lb over the front tires is working against your transitional prowess, and that's a lot of auto x, so you have to make the power work for you somewhere else on the course and hope its enough to offset the areas your slower in.

That aside, i'd consider upping the boost to maximize the set up you have, 350whp sc isn't exactly brutal (its quite a manageable trq curve) but your already carrying around the weight of a FI system that is capable of more, might as well run the smallest pulley and max it out to get the most out of the car.

 

Original post edited - long weekend, I wasn't thinking. Some answers;

All the suspension stuff was done when running square except for the J's camber joints. I was working towards balancing the car with the Rivals. The 17 and 18" Enkei's popped up on the forum and I found the R1's would squeeze without pulling the fenders. At the first event with the R1's the handling completely flipped - MASSSAGE UNDERSTEER. Since then I've been to 5 or 6 events (mostly TnT's and a driver school) working towards flipping the balance back the way it should be. It's close enough that I can focus on my driving for a while, then maybe throw a hollow front bar in. The rear will still step out, but can easily get pulled back in.

I was going to up the boost again this winter and decided against it, for now. It's still a handful and I my driving has lots of upside before throwing more power at it. I took it in to get corner balanced a couple months ago and surprisingly, I didn't have to touch it. The numbers looked great and were near perfect when I got in it. That was with a full tank of gas and a heavy sub box and amp in the trunk. Right at 3000lbs with me.

I am not trying to built a competitive SSM car, it's just for fun and the challenge.

 

I have a 2002 honda s2000 with a comptech supercharger Novi1000 making 355whp and my car handles great in Autocross. I'm on stock suspension and alignment and running 17x9 255/40/17 square tires. I would occasionally spin out once in a while, but i wouldn't call it snap over steer. I actually learn that if you give it some gas coming out a corner quick the rear will bite hard and grip. Since then, i haven't spun out at autocross, and trust me, i thought i was going to eat it a few times but saved it with the gas pedal.

I just started autocrossing this past summer, and i won rookie of the year award for our club. I'll like to think i'm very competitive around my area. I usually finish in the top 5 out of around 30 people here, and I've also went to a bigger event in MN and finish 15 place out of 100+ people. And trust me when i say the driver makes the biggest difference. Here locally the competition consist of a 1st place National autocross champion and also one that finish 3rd place. I learned a lot from those guys, and just riding with someone faster will help you out, that way you get to see how fast you can really take those corners. The wheels and tires also make a big difference. Other than that, the driver makes the real biggest difference.

And yes, the S2000 handles great stock!! A square setup is the way to go.

 

N1220 CT kit, 393 WHP
Square AP2V1 rear wheels, 245 Hoosier A6's
Saner FSB, stiffest setting
No RSB
HKS Hipermax III Sport (700 lb front, 600 lb rear)
Hardrace lower ball joints
Maxed camber (was just under -3 deg) and caster, 0 front toe, 1/8" rear toe-in

This setup was the best my car ever felt at an autox. I've since changed to a 275 rear tire (still A6's), swapped my coilovers to the Bilstein PSS9's (bad decision but made to get some street comfort back), backed the FSB down a notch, and put the stock RSB back on. I lost some camber with the new coilovers too because I have the ride height set higher; again a bad decision for autox but sacrifices were made so I can drive the car on the street more comfortably.

This car with an SC can be just as controllable as it was stock. The power curve is so linear and the delivery so predictable. Glad you found a setup that sits well with you; its all about finding what works best for the individual driving style of the driver.