Here is the result of the bolt backing out form the mani, i was using stage 8 bolts. that only lasted 150 miles.



Here is the fix to it.



Quick question. Today i was working with the mani gasket, and i had to remove the down pipe. i notice that the O2 sensor wires are cut. Do i need that O2 sensor?

 

The stage 8s wouldn't have backed out if they were put in properly. Those welds are going to have to be ground off if you ever need to take that housing off as those aren't your normal "tacks". If you have an AEM then you don't need an o2 sensor unless thats what its tuned to use but most use the tps. The o2 sensor is only used at the dyno, and to make sure you aren't running lean on the street.

 

I've been having the same issues with bolts backing out. I used studs with lock washers and those eventually backed out also. I've tacked my nuts to my studs then my studs backed out. Im probably going to end up going back to bolts and tacking those. I also made an extra bracket to hold the dp from vibrating and will also be looking into making a bracket for the turbo. im running a pfab top mount mani.

 

I'm 100% aware of the pros and cos of the Tacks. Yes I'm running AEM EMS, i guess the O2 sensor is just there to cover the hole. My wideband is going to replace that O2 sensor =)

freshs2k: i feel your pain. If the tacks don't work i don't know what else to do.

 

GREAT, I'm glad I have this to look forward too.

I have arp's for the manifold, but regular old bolts that he sent w/the manifold for the turbo side.

 

s2guru what mileage until failure are we talking here?

 

cant you use locking wire?

 

Use AN-grade drilled bolts and safety-wire them. That's standard operating procedure in aircraft, because it NEVER fails, and it's easy to inspect, un-do and re-do. Here are some links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire
http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html


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The first link is just general info, the second is a tutorial. If it's done correctly, stainless steel lock wiring will solve almost any vibration related loosening. Tack-welding is doomed to failure by stress fracturing. All the stress of vibration is locallized in the weld.

BTW, Harbor Freight has safety-wire pliers for $6.99 and SS safety wire for 99 cents. Some folks say that the pliers aren't required , but once you've done without them, you will disagree. They are more than worth the money.

 

I did a little safety wiring on AH-64As at the base. Little bit of a pain for the first time around. After you get the hang of it, definitively the way to go. I think I even saw one of the guys from inline pro talk about it once here.

 

s2kswe: 200 miles

PrimePowerPro: thanks a lot for the links, i should be good with the tacks, but i will save the link for the future