S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Boost leak: Secondary air valve

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Old May 6, 2014 | 09:24 AM
  #1  
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Default Boost leak: Secondary air valve

I was doing a boost leak test and upon reaching 5psi, i heard vibration coming from the secondary air valve (looks like egr) on the intake manifold along with a leaking air noise going down the hose to the air pump.

I double checked all vacuum hoses and i dont have any check engine lights. The air pump is working fine.

The problem is that the valve is not holding pressure past 5 psi. Im aware of the delete plate and simulator, but id like to fix the valve...if it can be fixed at all.

I came upon this link where someone replaced their rubber seal.
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33861

I also noticed there were 2 screw holding the 2 halves of the air valve together. Is it worth a shot? Will the valve even hold more than 5 psi? Has anyone else attempted this?

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Old May 6, 2014 | 10:44 AM
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You will need to delete the air pump and put a block off plate on that valve
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:09 AM
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Ok, theres no way around that? I dont mind as long as thats the only option.

What about a check valve at the inlet hose right after the air valve? Wouldnt that stop the boost leak but still allow the air pump to move air to the valve?

Is the resistor used across the air pump plug to simulate the air pump a 12ohm resister?
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:14 AM
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I suppose a check valve is an option but the whole air injection system is unnecessary and doesn't even function with certain EMS's such as the AEM. Removing saves weight and headaches
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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Right, i agree. Although if you retain the cat and the ecu, what can you do? The option of a plug and play fi kit is appealing to a lot of owners...many of whom want to be able to pass emissions if needed. Its the reason why there are so many "base" kits floating around.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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There is something you can purchase that tricks the ECU to think that the air pump is still in place. That way, you can remove it without getting a CEL. Other than that, your check valve idea may be the only option.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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Are you using a piggyback ecu or Kpro? Just buy the izze airpump simulator and delete that whole system. Problem solved.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Yea, the sos base kit fvm.

I understand i can buy the izzy kit, but can i fix this problem otherwise?
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by james0933
Yea, the sos base kit fvm.

I understand i can buy the izzy kit, but can i fix this problem otherwise?

I have been using forced induction w/ a factory EMS and an AEM EMS

When i had the SOS stage1 i was worried about this same thing. Since i was running my bpv to atmosphere I blocked off the port on the aftercooler with the provided plug and ran the intake for the pump to the intake inlet tube just like honda had it.

When i went to the AEM EMS i took off the line going to the intake and just bent it over itself and tie wrapped it till i take off the bumper again so i can remove it.

Hope this helps.

Ive never had it leak boost up through the manifold as far as i know. My boost per pulley size is spot on if not im making more boost than im suppose to cause im at sea level.
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Old May 6, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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If you have a SOS stage1 kit follow the above mentioned air pump intake re-route.

Or

cap the aftercooler and put a breather filter on the air pump intake hose so it never sees boost. This should work as well..
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