I cut all 4 coil wires and then combined them into 1 wire going into the BAS and then 1 wire going to the 4 coil wires. I feel that it somehow needs to pull from the battery with a relay or something. This isn't a mustang lol.

 

Use a wire to short the pressure / boost switch to turn on the BAS. Crank the controller to the max. Turn on the ignition / engine and put a volt meter on the out line. You should see a voltage 18-20V.

Switch out your coils to be sure they aren't going bad. Some bad coils will break up under boost but runs fine in vacuum.

Maybe you are the limit of the BAS and stock coils? Lower the boost to find where it breaks up.

 

Why don't you run a relayed power source off the battery instead of the ignition wire, then run all the rest the same?

 

So there is no need to run a relay on the BAS? It seems like running a relay would ensure a clean 12V source directly from the battery and up voltage straight from there.

I used 2 sets of coils and both started breaking up around 27 psi. Even without the BAS I could still run 26 psi so its like its doing nothing.

Everyone else on here seems to be fixing all there spark blowout issues by running this and it hasnt worked....not even a little bit.

It seems odd that this thing should be taking signal from the 4 tiny/weak coil wires coming from the ignition switch and then amplifying that signal without any solid 12V source... you know what I'm saying? Kinda like, how can you increase whats not already there? The black/yellow wires going to the ignition switch are switched like a relay and go to the battery so you would think I wouldn't need an additional relay but who knows!

 

See above

 

There's no evidence to suggest that the 4 inputs are providing a weak source. It's getting power straight from the battery (thru a relay) and is a clean 12V source. There's nothing between the battery and BAS input that would add any noise or degrade that 12V source. Also, that circuit has a 15A fuse, if you were indeed hitting a bottleneck with the weak input, as you suggested, it would blow a fuse. With that, we're not current limiting the BAS and it is operating as intended.

I would echo what was stated above. Short the trigger to the BAS and measure the voltage you're getting at the coils. Verify the voltage is indeed getting boosted. For reference below is what I measured on a 12V battery sitting on th shelf.

BAS%--------BATT Voltage
OFF---------13.17 V
0-----------13.04 V
30----------13.6-14.46 V
35----------14.46-15 V
40----------15.27-15.63 V
45----------16.17 V
50----------17.18 V

 

Your splicing into the wrong place pm me i will send you my number n pics

 

Can someone post pics here when you figure it out before I cut into mine lol

 

There's more than 1 place to splice for a 12V input. So long as you interrupt the voltage going to the coils and reroute it so it's powered by the BAS.

 

Typically, the length of coil wire would be under 3ft long but mine is a total of about 8ft if I had to guess. The BAS is mounted under my steering wheel/dash and its about a 4ft section to get to the engine bay x 2 wires.

The test is done... something isn't working correctly...

0 - 13.85
10 - 13.85
20 - 14.45
30 - 15.15
40 - 16.18
50 - 17.35

The fused wire stays at 14.1 no matter what setting. This is the input wire so that seems good.


When the ignition is turned on and car not running...

12.09v at the boost a spark box in and out line. Both lines read 12.09.

11.96v at the coil plug clips directly at the coil itself. All read the same of 11.96v. I am guessing there is a .13 voltage loss because of legth or wire and soldering etc. .13 is acceptable as far as my knowledge goes. Again, the engine wasn't running, just ignition ON.